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Whaleback

California > High Sierra > 11 - Great Western &…

Description

**11,737 ft (3,577 m)**

Seen from the northern edge of Big Wet Meadow this peak is one of the most sublime and beautiful peaks in the whole range. It is essentially a huge nunatak similar in character to perhaps Pingora or Bugaboo Spire (though not quite as spectacular). One has to hike a long way and still not get a view until the very last minute, but it is well worth that hike.

It's south east face has two routes at Class 3, then there's Jonah's Joy (Class 3) on its west face, and the impressive (from Big Wet Meadow) and classic North Ridge is low 5th Class.

From the tiny and exposed summit there are good views across to Glacier Ridge on the west, Triple Divide Peak to the south and Milestone Mountain to the east.

Getting There

My climbing partner Sara called it "Wayback" and that's no exaggeration as it's about 20 miles and 2 days of hiking to get to Cloud Canyon.

Day 1 from Sample Meadow trailhead hike east to Sugarloaf Meadow to the west of Sugarloaf, there's a bear box and small creek here at this pleasant campsite next to the meadow. About 7 miles and about 6 hours of hiking - with about 2000 feet of down hill..
Day 2 From Sugarloaf Meadow hike east heading for the Roaring River Ranger Station, (7 miles) the trail heads up then down into the Roaring River Valley. From here cross the river and head south into Cloud Canyon, after about 4 miles and 1000 feet of gain you'll finally hit Big Wet Meadow and an almighty view of Whaleback, there's a great site(s) in the first big trees on the left of the trail. About 11 miles and 8 hours of hiking.

The northern opening of Cloud Canyon with Big Wet Meadow is a truly spectacular and special place on a par with Yosemite, albeit different in character - but definitely world-class. If it was near the road it would be crawling with tourists. But it's not uncommon to have the whole canyon to yourself.

Trip Reports

Here are a couple of links to awesome 1-day ascents from the trailhead to the summit:

DrDirtbag
Bob Burd

Routes from Left to Right

Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 4
North Ridge
Trad, Alpine
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 3
South Ridge
Trad, Alpine
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
 2
East Face, Left Side
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
North Ridge
 4
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad, Alpine
South Ridge
 3
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad, Alpine
East Face, Left Side
 2
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad, Alpine

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Whaleback as seen from Big Wet Meadow, one of the great vistas of California. Photo by Sara Susca.
[Hide Photo] Whaleback as seen from Big Wet Meadow, one of the great vistas of California. Photo by Sara Susca.
Whaleback and Great Western Divide
[Hide Photo] Whaleback and Great Western Divide
the Whaleback, center, as seen from near Triple Divide Pk
[Hide Photo] the Whaleback, center, as seen from near Triple Divide Pk
Whaleback on left
[Hide Photo] Whaleback on left
Whaleback 
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Big wet meadow
[Hide Photo] Whaleback Big wet meadow
North Ridge of Whaleback beckons in its early morning glow.
[Hide Photo] North Ridge of Whaleback beckons in its early morning glow.
Camp at Big Wet Meadow - Sara cleans after breakfast.
[Hide Photo] Camp at Big Wet Meadow - Sara cleans after breakfast.
Sugarloaf seen on the long hike from Cloud Canyon, past Roaring River, heading to camp at Sugarloaf Meadow for the night.
[Hide Photo] Sugarloaf seen on the long hike from Cloud Canyon, past Roaring River, heading to camp at Sugarloaf Meadow for the night.
Late afternoon light falls on the spectacular Whaleback in Cloud Canyon. Photo by Sara Susca.
[Hide Photo] Late afternoon light falls on the spectacular Whaleback in Cloud Canyon. Photo by Sara Susca.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The approach is “wayback” for sure. If you like long approaches, solitude, crystal clear emerald swimming holes, beautiful tasty alpine fish & fun adventurous long ridge climbing…this is the place. 40 miles total round trip with 7k+gain & loss from Marvin pass TH. Approach to the base is reasonable in a long day with full backpacking gear for fit individuals. There are numerous reliable water sources all along the way after Marvin pass starting from Kanawyer gap trail.

The whole Cloud canyon trail and the Roaring river is a very peaceful/majestic place. I would highly recommend spending a couple nights a mile or so below the base of The Whaleback along the Roaring river. There are spectacular campsites, amazing swimming holes and an abundance of fish all along the river.

There has been some bear issues at the Roaring river ranger station and around that area as of August 2022. A stealthy bear jacked someones food bag at the campsites at the ranger station, while they were swimming in the river. Make sure to secure your food. We saw 3 bears and lots of activity leading up to the station. But saw no activity past Cement Table meadow.

Highly recommend the North ridge, it has some awesome exposure. Sep 28, 2022
Dylan Kilby
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] This is the coolest goddamn mountain the High Sierra. Even its name is great - "Whaleback". May 8, 2024