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Routes in Whaleback

East Face, Left Side T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
South Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft
FA: Frank Meyers, Jack Wolfe - August 1971
Page Views: 418 total, 8/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Sep 3, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The route finishes on the crest of the South Ridge, about 10 minutes south of the main summit. Access to this point is gained by initially following easy benches, and large talus up a few ramps, trending right until what looks like steeper stuff is encountered. This proves easy also, although a little more exposed, mostly ledges and blocks with small to medium scree. Trend for a reddish broken wall which has a large ledge running beneath it. Hit this ledge on its left and cross rightwards beneath the reddish wall. then up steeper class 3 rock and slabs (the left wall of a cave) to gain much easier ground which is followed straight up to the crest of the south ridge.

Follow a ledge on the east side of the ridge, with a few slab moves to a notch, easy exposed scrambling leads from here up to the summit.

Descend the route - or go down Jonah's Joy.

Location

Follow the spectacular trail from Big Wet Meadow towards Colby Pass, cut off this trail when closing in on Whaleback's east face, easy cross country travel leads up the west side of the valley, up a final slope to just before some small lakes. The route starts around here.

Protection

None, it's 3rd Class

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