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Routes in Whaleback

East Face, Left Side T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
South Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 138 total, 9/month
Shared By: Aaron Slaven on Sep 7, 2016
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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For the purposes of this, I'll describe the South Ridge from where the SW Face Route crosses the spine of the Whaleback all the way to the Summit.
Secor's Peak, Passes, and Trails, briefly makes mention of this route in the text of the Southwest Face (class 3). He makes note that the point where the route then drops 300' on the eastern side that one can take the true South Ridge but this is class 4.


From the what can be considered the saddle of the SW Face route (where the pine trees ascend highest on the western side of the Whaleback) it's just shy of a half mile with almost continuous class 4 to the summit. The ridge is guarded by small fins sticking up in places. Most crux's can be passed on climbers right (east side), however I did pass one notable mini-fin on the western side.
One section in particular (about the half way point) could be considered a small tower (false summit) is pretty tricky to keep 4th. So i'll grade this as a low 5th class solo.


Solo. Rope drag would be brutal. Any serious issues could just be passed by dropping off the South ridge down on to the eastern face.