Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Thunderbolt Peak

California > High Sierra > 09 - Palisades & Surr…

Description

**14,003 ft (4268 m)**

The last fourteener in the Sierra to be climbed, Thunderbolt Peak is the next peak northwest of North Palisade, it too is on the main Sierra crest. It's summit monolith is often the crux of the climb - a 5.9 move over and onto a slab. It's safer if the monolith is draped with a rope first. As such it's one of the hardest summits in the Sierra to get to.

The name "Thunderbolt Peak" commemorates an incident during the first ascent, when a nearby lightning strike gave Jules Eichorn cause for concern.

Getting There

The eastern approach:

From Big Pine on 395 drive up the road to Glacier Lodge; trailhead is signed on the right.

Hike up the North Fork of Big Pine Creek past Cienega Mirth, Lon Chaney's old cabin, and First, Second, and Third (spectacular views of Temple Crag) Lakes, then instead of continuing on to Fourth Lake turn south and up into Sam Mack Meadow. This is where I usually camp (6 miles, 3,400 ft of elevation gain). People staying more than a couple of days may want to cross the creek and head up the glacier trail to primitive sites either below the Palisade Glacier Moraine, or on the Moraine (1.25 miles, 1,100 more feet of gain).

Routes from Left to Right

4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 7
Underhill Couloir
Trad, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 4
Austrian Arete
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
 6
North Couloir
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Southwest Buttress
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 32
Southwest Chute 1
Trad, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Easy Snow
 123
Thunderbolt to Sill Traverse
Trad, Snow, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Underhill Couloir
 7
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
Austrian Arete
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
North Couloir
 6
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Southwest Buttress
 5
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Southwest Chute 1
 32
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad, Alpine
Thunderbolt to Sill Traverse
 123
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Thunderbolt Peak as seen from the summit of Temple Crag.
[Hide Photo] Thunderbolt Peak as seen from the summit of Temple Crag.
Thunderbolt before sunrise as viewed from halfway up Mt Winchell
[Hide Photo] Thunderbolt before sunrise as viewed from halfway up Mt Winchell
Where Thunderbolt Peak fits into things - as seen from Temple Crag summit.
[Hide Photo] Where Thunderbolt Peak fits into things - as seen from Temple Crag summit.
Summit monolith - TR from single bolt. Note position of register - to sign in you have to do the move.
[Hide Photo] Summit monolith - TR from single bolt. Note position of register - to sign in you have to do the move.
Thunderbolt to Sill
[Hide Photo] Thunderbolt to Sill
Lightning rod
[Hide Photo] Lightning rod
Sunrise pano with Thunderbolt on the right, and Mt Gayley in the middle-left (as seen from Mt Winchell)
[Hide Photo] Sunrise pano with Thunderbolt on the right, and Mt Gayley in the middle-left (as seen from Mt Winchell)
On the Palisade Glacier, E face of T-Bolt looming above
[Hide Photo] On the Palisade Glacier, E face of T-Bolt looming above

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Korfmacher
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] You can also approach T-bolt from the west. Hike up over Bishop Pass, then boulder-hop southeast behind the Palisades. It's possible to camp at a prominent saddle a couple miles from Bishop Pass. I strongly recommend bringing a six-pack of the beverage of your choice and stashing it in a handy snowfield near camp.

Ascent is via an obvious scree gully (usually pretty dusty in the summer). One 5.easy pitch (rope optional) will put you at the foot of the summit boulder problem. Jun 9, 2008
PumpkinEater
Sacramento
[Hide Comment] My friend and I did the traverse from Winchel Col to Mt.Sill 3 or 4 years ago climbing T-Bolt along the way. Probably one of the best climbs I've ever done in the Sierra. Climbing onto the summit pinnacle really only involves a move or two and is mellow for 5.9. Clip into the summit bolt with your daisy, stand up and......WhhooooooooWEEE! Mar 1, 2009
Geoff Unger
Mammoth, CA
[Hide Comment] FOUND! Iphone 5 near the summit of Thunderbolt Peak. PM me or email info@extremealpine.com and I will return it to you. Jun 11, 2016
[Hide Comment] Looking for the year of the FA, but don't see it here. I've seen it listed as 8/13/31 and 8/13/33. I've also seen the summit move as rated 5.8 and 5.9. I was thinking of doing it on the 90th anniversary, but if FA was in '33, I'll pick one of my regular days off and not have to burn PTO. Jul 26, 2021
[Hide Comment] As of 8 Oct 2023 there are two brand-new looking bolts (euro-style with a chain connecting them and a rap ring on one) on top. Not sure when they were placed. Oct 11, 2023