Avg: 1.4 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft, Grade II|
|FA:||Underhill, Clyde, Robinson, Farquhar, Dawson, Clark, Eichorn - August 1931|
|Page Views:||1,436 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Owen on Feb 1, 2007|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionAKA Undertaker Couloir.
Class 4 minus the summit monolith (5.9). Route of peak's first ascent.
Approach via the Palisade Glacier. Cross the bergschrund (gets bigger as the season progresses). Climb the righthand couloir, passing a chockstone on the right - continue up a chimney to the notch between North Palisade and Thunderbolt Peak. There are two ways from here; either traverse ledges on the south side then up a gully to the summit ridge. Or (better) climb directly up the ridge from the notch to the summit monolith.
Better when there's snow in the couloir - the couloir is horribly loose when free of snow.
Descend the route -- (rap and downclimb-- there are fixed pins along the right-side of the gully at each rap station).