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Routes in Thunderbolt Peak

Austrian Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
North Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Southwest Buttress T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Southwest Chute 1 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Thunderbolt to Sill Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Easy Snow
Underhill Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft, Grade II
FA: Underhill, Clyde, Robinson, Farquhar, Dawson, Clark, Eichorn - August 1931
Page Views: 1,436 total · 11/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Feb 1, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

AKA Undertaker Couloir.

Class 4 minus the summit monolith (5.9). Route of peak's first ascent.

Approach via the Palisade Glacier. Cross the bergschrund (gets bigger as the season progresses). Climb the righthand couloir, passing a chockstone on the right - continue up a chimney to the notch between North Palisade and Thunderbolt Peak. There are two ways from here; either traverse ledges on the south side then up a gully to the summit ridge. Or (better) climb directly up the ridge from the notch to the summit monolith.

Better when there's snow in the couloir - the couloir is horribly loose when free of snow.

Descend the route -- (rap and downclimb-- there are fixed pins along the right-side of the gully at each rap station).

Location

North facing couloir between North Palisade and Thunderbolt Peak.

Protection

Solo class 4 - ice-axe and possibly crampons. Summit monolith (5.9) may require a length of rope.

Photos

Donno
Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
I just rappelled this and it was horribly loose and dangerous. Do not climb this route when it is dry. Jul 31, 2012

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