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Routes in Thunderbolt Peak

Austrian Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
North Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Southwest Buttress T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Southwest Chute 1 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Thunderbolt to Sill Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Easy Snow
Underhill Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade III
FA: First descent by Oscar Cook, Sylvia Kershaw, Mildred Jentsch, Hunter Morrison and Isabella Morrison, September 3, 1949
Page Views: 1,397 total · 16/month
Shared By: smr123 Rathbun on Dec 8, 2010
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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The crux for us on this route was definitely route finding, as there isn't much beta on this route. The chute V's out towards the upper-end and it's very important to stay to the right. Follow this up to a large chockstone that you can climb underneath. Climb on top of the chockstone and climb some easy 5th trending southeast and you'll come upon the summit block.


Bishop Pass Trailhead in South Lake to Bishop Pass to Thunderbolt Pass


There are 1/4 inchers on the top of the summit block. We lasso'd it, and aided up.


- No Photos -
Ken H
Granite, UT
  Easy 5th
Ken H   Granite, UT
  Easy 5th
This route is called 3rd class in guidebook but I think it depends a lot on snow. Plus if you want to stand on the very top it is 5th class for sure. If you just wanted to stand next to the summit pinnacle then maybe only 4th class. We had ice axes, crampons, rope, and some gear and used it all (June 2009). Since we had the rope I recall doing two raps back to the notch and down led the part from on top of the chock stones where you are to traverse on the 3 ft ledge as that was covered in snow. Jun 29, 2012
Gary Schenk
Gary Schenk  
The easiest way up the summit block is at least 5.5 Jan 22, 2015

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