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Broken Arrow

5.10+ PG13, Trad, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 4 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 4 from 2 votes
FA: Chris Erickson, Carter Young
Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Glacier Gorge > Arrowhead
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Description

This route climbs 4 pitches between Arrowhead and Warhead and roughly parallels Warhead to its climber's left on a different ramp system. Like other routes in this area, the climbing is fun, reasonably protected, and on surprisingly solid and clean rock.

P1. Begin on the large, grassy ledge ~40 feet left of Warhead, and zig-zag up 5.8 PG-13, slab terrain with intermittent cracks. Continue up blocky terrain to belay on a sloping ledge below a shallow, left-leaning corner (150’).

P2. Climb up the left leaning, left-facing shallow corner to its apex, and make some 10+ slab moves to an undercling. Pull a series of small roofs, and traverse right on a ledge to climb through another bulge to gain a long, sloping ledge. Continue left and up this ledge, which opens up into a wide ramp. Belay where gear permits, about halfway up this ramp (160’).

P3. Jam 5.8 cracks up the ramp face to a left facing dihedral, and belay below a steeper parallel crack system to the left of the "rotten" P5 of Warhead (130’).

P4. Continue up the rightmost crack (5.9) until it steepens and trends left. Place a high piece, traverse down and right, then make exciting 10- moves to enter another crack system in a shallow groove. Climb up this crack system until its end at a big ledge (160'). Traverse left and belay to finish on Lost Arrowhead, or traverse right and belay to finish on Warhead

P5. Climb final pitch of Lost Arrowhead (5.10b) or Warhead  (5.9).

Top out, hike down to the low point to the West (cairn marked), make 2 rappels, and downclimb back to your gear.

Location

Begin in the middle of the grassy ledge between Arrowplane and Warhead.

Protection

A standard rack and a 70m rope. We used doubles to #3 and one #4 (could probably skip) and lots of slings. Aliens would probably be useful for small, shallow cracks.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Chris above the crux on P2.
[Hide Photo] Chris above the crux on P2.
Chris negotiating the crux.
[Hide Photo] Chris negotiating the crux.
Chris finding the shallow groove on P4.
[Hide Photo] Chris finding the shallow groove on P4.
Chris starting up the parallel cracks of P4.
[Hide Photo] Chris starting up the parallel cracks of P4.
Nearing belay ledge at end of P1.
[Hide Photo] Nearing belay ledge at end of P1.
Stoked atop P4.
[Hide Photo] Stoked atop P4.
Carter cruising up a shallow groove of P4.
[Hide Photo] Carter cruising up a shallow groove of P4.
Carter jamming up P3.
[Hide Photo] Carter jamming up P3.
Carter following up to the ramp on P2.
[Hide Photo] Carter following up to the ramp on P2.
The route location in solid red overlaid on Steph Abegg's great photo with permission.
[Hide Photo] The route location in solid red overlaid on Steph Abegg's great photo with permission.