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Second Diagonal

5.8+, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3 from 19 votes
FA: unknown
Massachusetts > Western MA > Mormon Hollow > Mormon Hollow - Right…

Description

Climb up into the cave, and follow the angled crack (and conveniently parallel foot rail) up as it slowly transitions from offwidth to fingers, then top out to find the anchors.

The crux is probably almost halfway up, as the footholds get a little more spreadout and the crack becomes a tad awkward for a bit.

Without jamming or laybacking skills, this might feel harder, but with both, it flows pretty nicely.

Also, there is great pro wherever you want it, albeit it may be a tad strenuous for the budding 5.9 leader to place those no-lookers.

Location

Just right of Priapism, climb the diagonal, right-leaning crack that starts in a small, triangular cave thingy.

Protection

Big pro (BD #4 or #5) helpful to protect beginning.

It has a nice 2-bolt anchor with lower-off biners (the last time I was there at least).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A view from the start.
[Hide Photo] A view from the start.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Daniel Anderson
Cambridge, MA
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] One of the best lines at Mormon Hollow. Gear is great all the way up. Plenty of good stances for gear placement between laybacks, so there's no need for blind gear placements (bad idea anyways since the crack is a little flarey in places). I would recommend a wider piece (#4 or #5) to protect the first few moves off the deck. As for many climbs at Mormon Hollow, it could use a little scrub or more traffic. Get on it! Aug 31, 2020
Daniel Kat
Denver, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Daniel Anderson, good point on the #4/5, that really should be part of the 'protection' section (added)! Aug 31, 2020
Steven Lee
El Segundo, CA
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Fun climb with great gear and high quality rock. A #4 protected the bottom fine, but a #5 would make it even more comfortable if you're not solid on fists. Pretty comfy and slightly awkward climb employing creative use of alternating jams and liebacks. Oct 4, 2020