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Deadpool

5.11c, Trad,  Avg: 2.6 from 8 votes
FA: unknown
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Lover's Leap > Main Formation > Main Wall > Tombstone Buttress
Warning Access Issue: 2026 Raptor Closure at Lover's Leap DetailsDrop down

Description

Climb dikes to a bolt about 15' up, then up and left over a small roof (nuts protect this section) into a shallow groove with a seam/tips crack in the back. Make some fun moves (crux) to another bolt, then continue up the widening crack to somewhat steep terrain to a shared anchor (bolts, chains) with Silly Willy Crack.

Location

Between Silly Willy Crack and the first pitch of Traveler's Buttress. 

Protection

Single set of cams to hand-size, small/medium nuts. Regular nuts work better than offsets or cams through the hardest section.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mike McL
South Lake Tahoe
 
[Hide Comment] Cool under the radar route. This was a redpoint project for me, so I inspected the gear on TR beforehand. I understand all routes are harder on the onsight, but I think this route in particular would be a lot more difficult as an OS. Balancy climbing with small and not always obvious gear.

Anyways, I found offset nuts to work quite well in several places, less so in 1 placement (compared to a standard nut). I used 2 smaller offset nuts and 1 regular nut to protect between bolts 1 and 2. I would take a decent selection of nuts if you're going for the onsight. Oct 6, 2022