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Devil's Pitchfork

5.10-, Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 8 votes
FA: unknown
Massachusetts > Western MA > Rose Ledge > 05 - French King Butt…

Description

On the left end of the French King Buttress lie two blocky, featured cracks. Devil's Pitchfork is the right crack. It has generally good holds, but some sections of laybacking make it somewhat powerful.

Location

It is on the left end of the French King Buttress. To get here, keep walking right underneath the first tier past the main wall, past the Overhang Buttress (the section of the wall with Rhyno Dyno), and past the amphitheater. You will come to a new section of wall with a blocky chimney with a diagonal tree growing out of it, this is the start of the French King Buttress. Devil's Pitchfork is maybe 10-15m to the right of the chimney, around the corner.

Protection

Nuts and cams from small to 2".

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Devils' Pitchfork (5.10-) is the crack with the gear in it. Left Pitchfork (5.10-) is the crack on the left that goes out of sight. Right Pitchfork (5.9) starts on Devil's Pitchfork and exits onto the right crack halfway up.
[Hide Photo] Devils' Pitchfork (5.10-) is the crack with the gear in it. Left Pitchfork (5.10-) is the crack on the left that goes out of sight. Right Pitchfork (5.9) starts on Devil's Pitchfork and exits onto…