PRINT: Rock Climb Grass Fed, Big Rock Mountain

Grass Fed

5.8+, Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 2.2 from 33 votes
FA: unknown
S Carolina > Big Rock Mountain > Upper Shaman Wall

Access Issue: Neighborhood Parking Details

Please be mindful of the neighbors on Big Rock Lake Road. Do not park along the road, generate excessive noise in the parking lot or at the cliff, or camp out. If the parking is full, use the spot at the intersection of Preston McDaniel and Nine Times Roads. This is a neighborhood, drive slow and be courteous. Violating one of these rules is an easy way to get the cliff shutdown for everyone.

Description

A odd but popular route. Worth the venture to Upper Shaman.

Climb the funky flakes at the start past two bolts. Above the second bolt you can get a #3 camalot. Move to the right side of the headwall at a really good hold on the arete to clip the bolt. Clip the bolt and make the reachy move left to get into the eyebrows. One more bolt gets you over this bulge. Easy slab leads to a final bulge. Gear can be had below the bulge, then a bolt in the bulge to anchors.

An alternative finish can be done after the second bolt. Move up and left out of the flake that arches left. Finish the same.

The anchors were extended by the CCC to make pulling the rope easier.

Location

Look for the obvious right facing flakes with bolts next to them.

Protection

Mostly bolts, #3 and 0.5 camalots can be used also. Alternative finish requires a few more hand sized pieces.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topo: All start up through crack. Venture left and up for fun face climb with the intended finish (yellow), or head right to Similax/Briar Patch's anchor for easier finish (green)

Matt preparing to TR Grass Fed

Grass Fed

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mark O'Neal
Nicholson, GA

5.9

This climb is just awkward. Be prepared for the bolts to be just out of reach above a harder move Feb 10, 2019

Zach Miller
Greenville

Very fun route! 5 bolts but takes gear down low. I agree that bolts can feel awkward around hard moves, but there are plenty of opportunities for placing between bolts 1 and 2 on the route. 3 bolt is very awkwardly placed to move onto the face. I was able to clip before making the moves but I am 6'2" so that may be specific for tall boy beta. The face is really fun but can be balancy and reachy to get onto. Once you are on and move to 4 bolt you will find a nice rail of jugs to clip from. Pulling over the 4 bolt, hike to the end. You can either go left of the finishing slab for an easy finish or go right to a dirty crack for some fun moves, bolt 5 and the finish. Apr 30, 2021

Tom Caldwell
Clemson, S.C.

5.8+

Be sure not to overtighten the bolts. The hanger on the left anchor may need to be turned slightly counter clockwise to prevent it from loosening. Oct 25, 2021

Danny Bell
Buford, GA

Route Beta

youtu.be/jLK3KyYTwzg?si=AjE… Mar 18, 2024