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Vanilla Corner

5.10, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 8 votes
FA: A. Miller, L. Peterson
New Mexico > Jemez Area > Capulin Canyon… > Capulin Canyon > Ice Cream Parlor > Main Sector

Description

Very fun climbing on a variety of crack sizes, but mostly wide. 

Location

Just around the corner from Bubblegum, look for a chimney choked with immovable talus blocks. At the start, notice a small cave opening that connects to the larger cave opening for the start of "1/2 Baked Alaska". Scramble up this talus to reach a ledge that wanders right a few feet to gain the bottom of the corner system with a good hand crack.

Protection

Double rack from 0.75 to #3 camalots, single 4 and 5. A second 5 and maybe even a 6 can be placed, but for some it would be possible to avoid placing either a 5 or 6 on the route at all.  Bring some draws. 

Bolted anchor with chain.

Please use your own quickdraws to toprope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Vanilla Corner. Climb up this easy blocky start to a good belay sit. Then head up the crack/dihedral. Have fun!
[Hide Photo] Vanilla Corner. Climb up this easy blocky start to a good belay sit. Then head up the crack/dihedral. Have fun!
Chains at the top of Vanilla Corner
[Hide Photo] Chains at the top of Vanilla Corner
From the top of Vanilla Corner.
[Hide Photo] From the top of Vanilla Corner.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Logan Peterson
Santa Fe, NM
 
[Hide Comment] Surprisingly fun route that will improve with traffic. If you should tape-up for anything at ICP, it's this one. The initial chimney is easier and more secure than it looks, and there are hand-sized placements at 20' or so. If you manage to get your rope stuck while pulling it (I've done this twice), downclimbing through the slot to the left feels safer to me sans rope.
I wouldn't pack a #6 for this route alone, as it protects a 5.8 move, and doesn't substitute for one of the #5s below. If you're pushing your grade, or packed a 6 for the OWs at the entrance or for Half-Baked Alaska, then it is a reassuring final piece. Dec 8, 2018
Benjamin Warren
Albuquerque, NM
[Hide Comment] scramble easy blocky terrain straight up to the crack to an acceptable belay stance. We placed green, red, red, green, then scramble to a stance to place a #4. Above we placed a #5, a #4, then a #2 (behind a mediocre flake). Another #5 would've been a better placement instead of the #2. Chains with biners up top. Oct 4, 2020