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Benjamin Warren

Albuquerque, NM
Male
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More About Benjamin Drop down
Member Since
May 26, 2018
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
75 Points
Point Rank: #12,428 DetailsDrop down
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To-Do List Sort & Filter All 744

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 278
● Chest Full of Kind
Trad
Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Bioturbation Wall
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
● Wormdrive
Trad
Jemez Mountains… > … > Capulin Canyon > Capulet Side Canyon
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 6
● Dizygotic
Trad
Jemez Mountains… > … > Capulin Canyon > Capulet Side Canyon
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
● Anklebiter
Trad
Jemez Mountains… > … > Capulin Canyon > Capulet Side Canyon
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 12
● Romeo
Trad
Jemez Mountains… > … > Capulin Canyon > Capulet Side Canyon
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
● Captain Obvious
Trad
Jemez Mountains… > … > Capulin Canyon > Main Cliff
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Chest Full of Kind Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Bioturbation Wall
 278
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Wormdrive Jemez Mountains… > … > Capulin Canyon > Capulet Side Canyon
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
● Dizygotic Jemez Mountains… > … > Capulin Canyon > Capulet Side Canyon
 6
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
● Anklebiter Jemez Mountains… > … > Capulin Canyon > Capulet Side Canyon
 7
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
● Romeo Jemez Mountains… > … > Capulin Canyon > Capulet Side Canyon
 12
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Captain Obvious Jemez Mountains… > … > Capulin Canyon > Main Cliff
 17
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

Ticks View All 104

5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
● Bruce Lee as FUCK
Nov 12, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. it'll go, but it'll take some work. need to do some core lol Gear: two green, three reds, a #3, a#3, a bunch of #4s (3-5 each), a #4.5 if available, probably three #5s. easy climbing up to the roof, commit to a butterfly stack as high up above the pod as you can and get your right heel in DEEP above your stack. once your heel no longer fits, fully invert, both feet first toe in crack first. don't forget you can use the wall as well. crux is the last 6-8 feet of roof where it gets steeper and the feet are less secure. I have not yet pulled the roof but there's features on the crack and wall that will be key. after is more #4s briefly then tight #5s (no knees) to the finish. bolt with a rap ring and tat for the anchor.
Trad
Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Bioturbation Wall
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 1
● Raison D'être
Nov 3, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Definitely went up with the wrong gear not knowing which route I was on. Mostly #5s and a #6 or two. A #2 can help protect the hand crack start (above the ledge) and a #7 or #8 could protect the squeeze (not sure which one). Felt spicy since I didn't have the proper gear, probably 10+ or 11- at most?
Trad
Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Reservoir Wall
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 26
● Dentist Chair
Nov 2, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. six #5 would be nice, seven is probably even safer. I took two #4s and a 4.5. the 4.5 was nice to have in the crux up top when it gets too tight for knees. there's a 4-6' crux at the top of the first flare. had to aid through until I could stack again. save a small #4 or big #3 for the last bit up top. I took five #5s, a 4.5, two #4s, three #3s, two #2s, a green, a 0.5, and a 0.4. could drop either the 0.5 or the 0.4. a #1 might be nice for the left hand crack before the ledge. an extra #3 for up top would've been nice perhaps, or just save a smaller #4. a 70m gets you back to the ledge on the climb to easily tie on a second rope. and 80m might actually get you to the boulder to your right on the ground
Trad
Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Broken Tooth
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 917
● Scarface
Oct 31, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. place an orange TCU down low (from the rock if you need) then bring a green, two reds, 4 golds, and a purple or #3 for the finish. down low is good; I won the hand size lottery. follow the pods with your hands and feet (remember tops of pods for hands) then burn through the thin hands. top goes easy
Trad
Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Scarface
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 9
● Critical Mass
Oct 25, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. slipped 10 feet from the chains... 1-2 #4s, (a 4.5 was helpful), 3-4 #5s, 2 #6s, 2 #7s. save a #7 for the wider part up top and a #6 to finish on. A few tricky spots, but the finishing bulge might be the crux
Trad
Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Critic's Choice
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 580
● Annunaki
Oct 25, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. second time sending. rack is 1 #2, 2 #1s, and 2 greens. place a green below the real fingers section above the pod. do this from a knee bar and rest up. left hand up to the curve, then right hand to the tiny shelf. flared paddle hand (left) in the pod to clip from. others do opposite hands for this section, maybe try that?
Trad
Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Optimator
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Bruce Lee as FUCK Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Bioturbation Wall
 9
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Nov 12, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. it'll go, but it'll take some work. need to do some core lol Gear: two green, three reds, a #3, a#3, a bunch of #4s (3-5 each), a #4.5 if available, probably three #5s. easy climbing up to the roof, commit to a butterfly stack as high up above the pod as you can and get your right heel in DEEP above your stack. once your heel no longer fits, fully invert, both feet first toe in crack first. don't forget you can use the wall as well. crux is the last 6-8 feet of roof where it gets steeper and the feet are less secure. I have not yet pulled the roof but there's features on the crack and wall that will be key. after is more #4s briefly then tight #5s (no knees) to the finish. bolt with a rap ring and tat for the anchor.
● Raison D'être Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Reservoir Wall
 1
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Nov 3, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Definitely went up with the wrong gear not knowing which route I was on. Mostly #5s and a #6 or two. A #2 can help protect the hand crack start (above the ledge) and a #7 or #8 could protect the squeeze (not sure which one). Felt spicy since I didn't have the proper gear, probably 10+ or 11- at most?
● Dentist Chair Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Broken Tooth
 26
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Nov 2, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. six #5 would be nice, seven is probably even safer. I took two #4s and a 4.5. the 4.5 was nice to have in the crux up top when it gets too tight for knees. there's a 4-6' crux at the top of the first flare. had to aid through until I could stack again. save a small #4 or big #3 for the last bit up top. I took five #5s, a 4.5, two #4s, three #3s, two #2s, a green, a 0.5, and a 0.4. could drop either the 0.5 or the 0.4. a #1 might be nice for the left hand crack before the ledge. an extra #3 for up top would've been nice perhaps, or just save a smaller #4. a 70m gets you back to the ledge on the climb to easily tie on a second rope. and 80m might actually get you to the boulder to your right on the ground
● Scarface Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Scarface
 917
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Oct 31, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. place an orange TCU down low (from the rock if you need) then bring a green, two reds, 4 golds, and a purple or #3 for the finish. down low is good; I won the hand size lottery. follow the pods with your hands and feet (remember tops of pods for hands) then burn through the thin hands. top goes easy
● Critical Mass Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Critic's Choice
 9
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Oct 25, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. slipped 10 feet from the chains... 1-2 #4s, (a 4.5 was helpful), 3-4 #5s, 2 #6s, 2 #7s. save a #7 for the wider part up top and a #6 to finish on. A few tricky spots, but the finishing bulge might be the crux
● Annunaki Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Optimator
 580
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Oct 25, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. second time sending. rack is 1 #2, 2 #1s, and 2 greens. place a green below the real fingers section above the pod. do this from a knee bar and rest up. left hand up to the curve, then right hand to the tiny shelf. flared paddle hand (left) in the pod to clip from. others do opposite hands for this section, maybe try that?

Tick Breakdown
Trad Sport Boulder Ice

Pitches Routes Days Out
90 Days 0 0 0
Last Year 16 16 12
5 Years 93 74 45
All Time 131 104 61

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