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Maximum Security

5.10a, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 36 votes
FA: Ric & Cyn Geiman
Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > Sand Gulch > Free Form Wall

Description

This is pretty steep with good holds. The crux is 3/4 the way up moving to and off the sidepulls. It is fun, easy climbing & a good warmup route.

Location

This is the first route to the right of Minimum Security.

Protection

8 bolts to ring anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Craig entering the steep crux of Maximum Security.
[Hide Photo] Craig entering the steep crux of Maximum Security.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Seb303
Westminster, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Anybody know how to find this route? My party and another party were both looking for it but were unable to locate it. We looked right of Minimum Security, and the first route we were able to find was Red Rocket around the corner (old sketchy looking bolts). No bolts found between Red Rocket and Minimum Security. We also had the new guidebook, and this route was in it (described to be in the same place), but it is not found where the guidebook says it is. Where is this route??? Was it chopped? Mar 20, 2018
Derek Lawrence
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] The first route right of Minimum Security is Maximum Security. It's the route with dark hangers right above the steps on the south end of Freeform Wall. Red Rocket and Laughing Lab are on a separate chunk of rock just to the southeast. Mar 20, 2018
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
[Hide Comment] In Rick Thompson's new guidebook, #128 seems more likely the location for Maximum Security, not #127. The line depicting #127 looked very broken and loose. 5.9+ seemed about right for the route up and around the corner, although I wouldn't argue with a .10a rating. Two cruxes and a bit pumpy. Apr 17, 2018
Derek Lawrence
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] Doug, had to go check the guidebook.... Is there even a bolted route where #127 is? I've not ever seen one, and the route I describe above (which does correspond with Route #128 in Rico's book) appeared about the same time as when Ric added this route to MP. I have not yet climbed it, so I cannot comment on the grade.... Apr 17, 2018
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
[Hide Comment] We didn't find any bolts where #127 is shown, and I can't imagine anyone wasting hardware on that little section. Apr 17, 2018
Derek Lawrence
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] 3rd bolt replaced. Thanks to ASCA for the hardware!

Several of the hangers were loose and spinning on this yesterday. Most were just loose nuts and were able to be tightened. The 3rd bolt however was turning within the hole and the expansion sleeve wouldn't engage even under tension. Tried for a long time to get the nut off to spin the bolt out, but it was locked on. Had to chop and patch unfortunately. Mar 9, 2020