PRINT: Rock Climb Cerberus, South Platte

Cerberus

5.11b, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 2.6 from 57 votes
FA: Alex A., Siva Surapanani
Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Staunton Rocks > Meadow Dome > Labyrinth

Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Description

Climb just right of the Cave, use the slab of rock on the left to get to the under cling, You can avoid the slab, but it is a harder start, Move right and up, getting past the 2nd bolt 1st crux thin move, to good holds below the overhang, Then move left, follow dihedral, the 2nd crux, Then easier climbing to the top.

Note: there couple of variations, BEST DONE ON TOP ROPE. At the start, stay left of the bolts, VERY STRONG MOVE, to a VeRY THIN MOVE!!!!! This joins the normal route at the overhang, 5.12?. The 2nd one is at the overhang, climbing the face staying right of dihedral, 5.11a.

Location

Hike to the base of Meadow Dome, follow the trail to the right, to small grove of Aspens. Look for the 1st trail that goes left, with some steps at the start, with a cairn, will lead to the Labyrinth.

Protection

10 bolts plus the anchor with Mussy hooks.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cerberus.

Martha finishing up the second crux.

Jun Kim, at the 1st crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dougald MacDonald

Despite the creaky big hold at the start, this is a cool and demanding pitch, switching from power moves down low to techy, could-fall-at-any-second moves passing the small roof. Excellent pro for all the difficult stuff. Aug 23, 2022

Daniel Kat
Denver, CO

5.12

Not a big fan: a lot of loose-feeling holds throughout and many spots where it looks like holds have recently come off. I even found one pretty big, chalky block on the ground nearby that had clearly broken off (recently?). It seems like more will probably come off soon, too, so be careful. I couldn't pull through it. My friend did but said it felt more like 5.12 moves to do it (the crux, not the "5.12 start"). Not even sure exactly what line the 5.12 start would follow, seems like it would be kinda contrived not to start on the left. Jun 10, 2024

Tal M
Denver, CO

Not 5.12, and if loose blocks and holds breaking is a huge deal for you, you probably shouldn’t climb at Staunton or most places in CO. Staunton is pretty soft granite, which is why it’s so featured, and as a result most seasons you’ll see holds popping off post freeze-thaw season regardless of the traffic. Jun 10, 2024