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Diva

5.10a, Sport, 95 ft (29 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 36 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Adirondacks > Lake George Region > Shelving Rock > 3. Neanderthal Cave
Warning Access Issue: Peregrine Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Climb through three overhangs. There are a couple holds that are tough to see until committed. Once on the slab at roughly mid route do not trend left, stay basically straight. (This bolt is impossible to see from below) Now the route crosses Devo at a silver bolt and climbs through steep juggy terrain(follow the black bolts)to the anchors.

Location

Begins a few feet right of Devo. This route has black bolt hangers.

Protection

Bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climber complaining about rope drag on Diva. Good idea to bring extended draws to eliminate drag over multiple roofs.
[Hide Photo] Climber complaining about rope drag on Diva. Good idea to bring extended draws to eliminate drag over multiple roofs.
The crux overhang, which is the last of three that are almost equally as difficult. This is a tricky route for the grade.
[Hide Photo] The crux overhang, which is the last of three that are almost equally as difficult. This is a tricky route for the grade.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Gunkiemike
[Hide Comment] I'd give this one at least one more star than what Lawyer/Haas have on the website. The three bulges are tough enough for the grade, but the work isn't over until you clip the anchor. Lots of climbing: 13 bolts, a couple of which are best clipped with 2ft slings. Aug 30, 2013
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
[Hide Comment] I'll add an "AMEN" to the above comment and grade....and I just 'fooled around' on the headwall part (where Diva and Devo cross). The Diva (black bolts) climbing had a pretty thin move; i.e. not just "jug away". Jun 3, 2014
christopher adams
 
[Hide Comment] The bottom is pretty loose. I was pretty worried about dropping a block onto my belayer. The falls at almost all of the bottom 5 bolts seem pretty bad (ankle breakers) if you take them, but thankfully the climbing is easier down low.

The top is much cleaner and better. May 6, 2016
Oak Nelson
Superior, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] 12 bolts + 2 anchors Oct 1, 2017
Chris Topher
 
[Hide Comment] A nice climb that finishes with some great views, felt a little tougher than a lot of 10.a's . A few loose hangers as well on the route. May 7, 2020
Josh S
Brooklyn, NY / Gunks
 
[Hide Comment] Great climb. Full value the whole way up.

Warning, gear beta: in addition to the obvious bolts that need extension, the bolt after the ceiling needs at least an alpine draw on it. I led the climb once with an alpine on it (and a fully extended alpine draw under the ceiling) and was fine, but I got crushing rope drag when I led it the next time with a regular quickdraw above the ceiling because the short draw up top pulls the rope into the crack below. May 31, 2020