PRINT: Climb Hermit's Cave, Eastern, MA

Hermit's Cave

V4, Boulder, 8 ft (2 m),

Avg: 3.6 from 75 votes
FA: Bob Van Belle in 1989
Massachusetts > Eastern, MA > Hammond Pond > Temple Area > Hermit's Cave Area > Hermit's Cave

Description

Start back in the cave on fantastic juggy underclings with decent feet on the wall. Power out of the cave using roof beta to a hard cross move on the small arete feature. Once gaining the seam, traverse left to a very tricky mantle topout for the grade. Thank goodness it isn't highball!

Starting further back in the cave may add a grade.

This is a super classic climb that gives us in Boston a little taste of roof climbing, and is totally uncharacteristic for Hammond Pond and a very worthy tick for being so close to the city. Any visit to the Temple Overhangs or Pusherman Wall should include a stop here.

Boston Rocks Ed. 2 gives this a classically sandbagged 5.10/V1 rating.

Location

From the left end of Pusherman Wall, walk roughly north for about 100 yards. The cave is very obvious, especially when foliage is thin.

Walk off the back.

Protection

Pad under the lip, a spotter is nice for encouragement on the mantle.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Coming out of the cave.

A view from inside the cave, starting on the inner rail.

Two possible variations.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ben Mackall
Bozeman, MT

V3-4

Please be considerate/safe and check whether anyone is in the cave before climbing here. Refuse, etc. give evidence that this is occasionally used as a bedding spot for those less fortunate. May 20, 2013

Ben Mackall
Bozeman, MT

V3-4

There is a very awesome and very hard-looking problem that ascends the arete about 4 feet left of the top-out cobble on this problem. If anyone has any beta on this, I'd love to hear it. Sep 7, 2013

kram941 Bernardo
Woburn, MA

V3-4

The start is the second set of underclings, deeper in the cave right? The description didn't make it sound like but that seems like it would be the start. Apr 14, 2014

Ben Mackall
Bozeman, MT

V3-4

There is one set of underclings waaaay deep in the cave, almost to the other wall. I'm pretty sure using these puts it into V4-5 territory. The more natural start is the second set about 6 feet in.

Do what feels best! Follow your heart. Apr 15, 2014

Dan Rudolph
Chicago, IL

Just looked at an older video of this problem. It shows a much more positive hold on the small arete right of the cave than what is there now. The hold is now definitely the crux. Maybe this explains the Boston Rocks sandbagging. Jun 11, 2014

Ben Mackall
Bozeman, MT

V3-4

That would explain it. The hold looks either broken (more likely) or chipped. Jun 11, 2014

Derek Jf
Northeast

Been to Hammond Pond a handful of times and just today got on this problem - why didn't I try this line sooner. Wildly fun opening moves, finding some beta that resulted in the comfiest, double toe-cam compression out of the cave. Super positive and unique finish, too. CLIMB THIS PROBLEM! Jul 1, 2014

Ryan Malloy
Raleigh, NC

Even on the rail farthest from the cave entrance, there are two variations for starting positions: feet towards the back of the cave (making the rail an undercling), or feet towards the entrance (making the rail a sloper). Both are fun, and add a bit of variety to the roof section. Aug 12, 2014

Nick Cavallo
Colorado

One of the best climbs at Hammond Pond. Nov 25, 2017

Lincoln Mahan
Golden

youtube.com/watch?v=bx51YeU…. May 19, 2020

LionelC
Watertown, MA

There's a potential "direct exit" variation that tops out straight up the seam - way harder mantel than the usual left exit. Oct 15, 2020

Connor Haines

Has anyone worked this problem going straight up the arete rather than moving right once you are at the lip of the cave? I added a photo to show what I mean. I've been working straight up the arete using the two crimps indicated with yellow arrows. I think most people probably go further right, using the holds indicated with white arrows. Going straight up feels much more difficult. Is it worth it to call the arete variation its own problem? Aug 5, 2021

Joseph Niski

V4+

Connor and LionelC, I was there on Friday and gave some attempts to the direct route up the front of the arete. It is hard. The second hand hold up the arete is good enough to pull on, along with a thumb catch. I think I need to improve my lock off strength to send this variation, as the next move would be to the jug at the top. I think it goes, it is just very hard. Apr 24, 2023

Dan Alroy
Boston, MA

None of this route is chipped, folks. The holds have been the same since 1993 when I first did it, and climbing up the arete towards the jug was the classic variation and was always considered V4/5. May 24, 2023

Joseph Niski

V4+

Dan, if the direct/arete variation is only V4/5, I would love some help then. I have been trying this variation for a few sessions now, using only the 2 holds with yellow arrows (see picture from Connor captioned Two possible variations.), avoiding any of the crack holds, and those moves are significantly harder than anything else on the original climb. Is it just hard and sandbagged because it's Hammond or am I missing something? May 30, 2023

Joseph Niski

V4+

Two things:

1. Be careful of bats here this time of year. I was there last night, and there was at least one bat in the cave.
2. The moves up the front of the arete goes, it's just hard. I'll post a video and maybe a new route on MP, but using the two holds directly on the front of the arete from the base start goes. Mar 19, 2024

Joseph Niski

V4+

Hermit's Cave directly up the arete goes. I sent for the first time yesterday. If anyone knows if this has been done before, please let me know so I can properly credit the FA. If it has not been done, I would love to claim it! (Yes, I know every route at Hammond has been done a million times).

Check out the new page for it. I'm psyched to see other people work on and send it! May 12, 2024

Andrew Redlawsk
Boston, MA

Easily V5 from the deep rail. Either this climb should just start from the deep rail, or the climbs should be split, because there's no world in which this thing is under V4, and I have a hard time even giving it that. VERY fun and sustained problem though, with a great mantel.

Beta: kaya-app.kayaclimb.com/clim…. May 23, 2025

Peyton Luc
Dirty South

V3-4

Flash from the deep rail! The route is sandbagged. Supercool movement - I secured a double toehook to get out of the cave. This reminds me of Hammerhead at Horse Pens 40.

A video: kaya-app.kayaclimb.com/clim…. Jun 14, 2025