PRINT: Rock Climb Impotence, City of Rocks

Impotence

5.10d, Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3.1 from 13 votes
FA: Bill Boyle, early 80s
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Breadloaves > Decadent Wall

Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

What's this impotence you speak of?

For most mortals who take a look at Testosterone Test and mumble some excuse about having left some key piece of gear and their best pair of lead testicles in the car, the appropriately named Impotence can offer some redemption. Sure, the line doesn't offer the steep gear-protected shenanigans of its angry neighbor but it packs some nice punches of its own... Just in case, check your man parts for proper function after getting off this one (ladies are obviously immune).

Prepare to get slapped around right at the start with a scary rail traverse: no feet, no pro and a long ways to the first bolt above a slopping slab (read: stick clip). Once established on the rail, get ready for an ass-whooping as you negotiate thin slabby terrain with a looming chunk of rock at your back (dabbing discouraged or take 2 letter-grades off). Try to stay unfazed when the crux comes at you swinging with a rough high-step to a precarious perch. Regroup at a decent rest below a small roof and a pin then fire up the last easier section on great patina jugs. Scamper left to the chains of TT. Consider the necessity of adding 5.10e to the YDS.

Where do I go?

Impotence shares its start with Testosterone Test. Look for a mondo roof system on the far right side of the Decadent Wall. Leave the black bolt at the corner of the roof alone, you're going to travel along the horizontal rail.

How do I not die?

5 or so bolts and a solid pin which can be backed up with small cams (green/red C3). A variety of pieces (I used a .5) can take the sting off the last unprotected but easy 20'.
A stick clip or a branch + tape will keep you from soiling your breeches (and potentially leaving brain smears on the slab below) at the start.
Lower/rap from the chains of TT.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Geoff Georges
Seattle, WA

5.11a

you can get a cam in on the traverse and like said above a .5 or .75 work up top. Oct 29, 2016