[Hide Comment] More fun than the original start, a few options on where you can go too. Oct 19, 2014

[Hide Comment] I find 5.7 to be slightly sandbagged, but only for single moves, right off the deck. You prob won't get hurt if you come off before you get in a nice piece but the first 10ft are tricky, especially relative to "normal" 5.7. It's all there, but just doesn't feel 100% secure, unless you're a very strong leader (10+/11?). Again, this is only for a couple moves, then you're secure and it's 5.6 the rest of the way, maybe mellow 5.7 in a couple spots. I dunno where the 140ft comes from, I always traverse L once you are level with the sandy trail, and that's barely 100ft, if that. There's a small manzanita to sling *(no slings on it) and use to bring up your second. Then coil the rope, walk towards the wall, and then walk the 300-400ft up to the second pitch. While you're here, look L as you walk towards the wall and find the final rap anchor, this is what you should use instead of the last two raps on the RA rap route, way better option. Nov 5, 2020

[Hide Comment] Not very aesthetic, but a good way to pass a slow party in the chimney. Jun 15, 2021

[Hide Comment] 5/7/22 It wasn't exactly an alpine start, but we managed to get to the base of RoyalArches by 9AM. "It's Saturday, and there is no people, great!" I broke a big smile. Nico and Gio smiled back at me, "it will be awesome". It was sunny, but not hot, moderate wind, a good day to climb in the Valley. The first pitch goes through a narrow chimney, an awkward and least pleasant section of the route, but it's only 20 feet long, so no big deal. Nico was out rope gun, and Gio and I were just enjoying the free ride. As we joined Nico at the anchor, people started showing up. Nico took of, and two people simul-climbing went up over our rope without saying a word. Wtf? But wait, another two did just the same thing. Hmm, we looked at each other, "is that the new normal here"? Well, what can you do, just keep climbing and enjoy the setting with incredible views. The route was wandering, with a lot of scrambling broken by short sections of good quality 5.6 or 5.7's. When we got to the pendulum pitch, the people that passed us created a bottle neck. So, we waited for an hour. But wait, there is more, those people passed a party of four, so now another bottle neck was created, this time at the first rap station. Another two hours delay. Finally, we started the rappels at 8PM. One more party was behind us simul-rapping. At some point (fifth station?) their rope got stack, so we left the ropes for them hanging, and waited some more. They managed to retrieve their rope, and we all proceeded with the rappels. Wen we got to the ledge above the gully, we met a party of two lost on the descent. Now, we were a party of seven going down, LOL. We got to the car at 1AM! A five hour descent in Yosemite, my personal record. So, 16 hours car-to-car, a bit tired, but in good spirits we made it. RAIAD!!!

Reported by MooseDrool May 13, 2022

[Hide Comment] This is way better than the original start. Nov 3, 2025