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Porcelain Hook Slide

V6, Boulder, 12 ft (4 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 13 votes
FA: Marc Troob
Rhode Island > Arcadia Managem… > Penny Hill Boulders

Description

Sit start with left on pinch with thumb catch, right on undercling. Work out dark left facing arete, while slapping up white right facing arete. Top out like a boss

Location

coming out of cave as you walk up.... left of the V11+? project

Protection

pad under and one on slab to left or good spot so you don't crack the back of your skull.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dana trying some foot beta on Marc Troob's new route, Porcelain Hook Slide
[Hide Photo] Dana trying some foot beta on Marc Troob's new route, Porcelain Hook Slide
Landing status 12/10/21 and starting holds(?)
[Hide Photo] Landing status 12/10/21 and starting holds(?)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

marctroob
  V5
[Hide Comment] felt like V4-V6... i guess it felt harder than Temperance? Give it a go and let us know. Apr 14, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
[Hide Comment] I'm thinking on the harder side of that range, though I have only done the stand version so far. It seems quite a bit harder than Temperance to me, though if you are a big compression guy it may not... a really fun burly problem. Nice job, Marc. Apr 14, 2012
MaxMonn
Providence, RI
  V5+
[Hide Comment] VERY cool line. This definitely needs to be promoted/hyped more because IMO its one of the best 5's in RI.

Just to clarify, the project next to it starts on the right hand pinch/ledge of porcelain hook slide and goes up right into some microscopic crimp undercling? May 12, 2015
M Sprague
New England
 
[Hide Comment]
Topo - The front face project. line of travel, everything on
May 12, 2015
Dana Seaton
Rhode Island
 
[Hide Comment] its worth noting maxx that the stand start is also undone to the project. May 13, 2015
M Sprague
New England
 
[Hide Comment] Yup, the starting traverse is not very tough, just starts the pump. The hard part is in the middle, the transition onto the lower angle face. May 13, 2015
MaxMonn
Providence, RI
  V5+
[Hide Comment] Thanks Mark and Dana! The move up to that crimpy undercling seems wicked heinous. Overall I wasn't too psyched about the line. Seems hard but not necessarily fun or inspiring especially when seated right next to PHS. Oh well, maybe next time I'm down that way I'll give it a few burns. Thanks for the schematic! May 31, 2015
Jacob Cytrynbaum
Tucson, AZ
  V6
[Hide Comment] Someone dug out a pit in the landing area of the boulder. I shoveled back a bunch today, but it's still not a flat landing and the dirt will settle. I'll try to get back out. As it stands, 1 pad underneath is not really enough because of the uneven ground. Bring a few. Nov 21, 2021
M Sprague
New England
 
[Hide Comment] Thanks. Apparently somebody keeps doing that. Stop, whoever you are! (no evidence that it is actually a climber that I know of though) Dana has cleaned the mess up at least once also. Nov 22, 2021
Jacob Cytrynbaum
Tucson, AZ
  V6
[Hide Comment] Thanks, Dana. What a weird issue to be ongoing. It's a lot of work to dig it out once, let alone several times. I agree the game camera might be the way to go Nov 22, 2021
Dana Seaton
Rhode Island
 
[Hide Comment] This is such a strange happening, and I do not think the digging has been climbing related. I found the pit the day after it was dug as I had been working on the line, and when I came back the following day there was a strange couple walking around the area apparently looking for something. When I first filled the dirt in there were scraps of cotton material in the dirt, like t shirt material that looked like it had been underground for some time. I asked them if they had dug the pit and they claimed that they did not, but then left. They were in a large orange pickup with a camper in the bed.

Sucks that we have to make effort to fill in the gap again, but it is such a great problem with two distinctly different beta lines to get you to the top. Nov 22, 2021
Owen Jackson
Rhode Island
  V6
[Hide Comment] Figuring out beta for this was really hard. I used a friend's beta or else I wouldn't have figured it out.

Beta video: youtu.be/vOE0Oskxihc Apr 17, 2022