Greg originally rated this route 5.9+ and the line followed a deceptive path up the middle of the slab. Due to another route right next to it that shares the first pitch plus start of the second pitch, it seems that not many will repeat the original line or experience the original intent of this Greg Lowe masterpiece.
Some years ago writing on a thread for SuperTopo, Jeff Lowe had the following comment about 'Infinite'.
Hard Slab Climbs
Nov 30, 2006 - 06:11pm PT
In the sixties in SLC we had already drunk the Kool-Aid. . .My cousin George climbed the Dorsal Fin with long run outs between chickenheads to drill from. It's still rated 10d. It was my first climb of that sort, when George took me to repeat it in 1967. I just thought it must be normal. I also really enjoyed the need for concentration and steady nerves. . . Probably the hardest slab climb in the country in those days was my brother, Greg's route, Infinite, in the City of Rocks. Infinite had lots of 5.10 spice climbing, and a 5.11c crux fully 30 feet above the last 1/4" bolt. Kim Miller made the second ascent in the mid 'seventies and I repeated it afterwards. These may have been the only ascents of the route early on . . . .
Base of the Clamshell - upper City of Rocks. Pitch 1 goes over the roof at the lowest part of the wall (old bolt) and ends at what used to be a two pin (lost arrows) anchor. The original Lowe route goes left, undercling, and into a shallow grove that you need to step out of via a layback. Clip the bolt and head for a small tree. It gets steeper and steeper. The danger would be falling and sliding down the groove and tripping over the rope that crosses it.
Mostly old quarter inch bolts.
Most impressive Kim. I'm doubting any others have done this? Nov 26, 2011
Sandy, UT
Scary looking, to say the least.
No waitin' in line for this one! Dec 1, 2011
Riverside, CA
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
OR-NV-CA-ID-WY
OR-NV-CA-ID-WY
The first time I went to climb Infinite (1982 or 83?), knowing only that it was hard and on the Clam Shell, I found an old aluminum hanger bolt under a overhanging cluster of small flakes. This bolt is what you see clipped in RKM's first photo. Pull the overhang and follow the arching crack/flake right another 10-15 feet to pins marking the first belay; the first pitch was something like 30 feet long. From the first belay (pins), you could see bolts (I think there are four bolts) to climber's left that went straight up to a steep, short bulge on top of which was a small tree (an obvious location for the second belay). The first time I was ever on the Clamshell, the bolted variation to Infinte was already there; I did not put up the variation or place these bolts. It is a good line, and four bolts on a 125' pitch is not bolted to hell in my book. I doubt the bolts went in on rappel; they are far apart and, as I recall, at stances, and having put up a lot of face climbs, I think they went in on lead. And no one was bolting on rappel at the time - that came later. Though I did not put up the bolted variation; I like it and probably would have if someone else hadn't already. The variation second pitch following these bolts was long, with the bulge at the top being the crux well above the last bolt, and rope drag was ....a drag. The final third pitch above the tree was unprotected, relatively easy, got easier as you climbed and the angle of the slab kicked back. Nov 17, 2018
OR-NV-CA-ID-WY
Alpine, Utah and Almo, ID
OR-NV-CA-ID-WY
It would be interesting to know who put up the variation. Someone passing through seems unlikely given the approach but maybe there was a group who learned of the test piece back in the day. My guess, however, is someone 'local' - out of northern UT (Logan, Ogden, SLC, Provo) or maybe Ketchum area. It is a good route. Nov 29, 2018
OR-NV-CA-ID-WY
I suggest the bolted variation to the right of Infinite be shown as another route, as it would be treated in any guidebook. I suggest calling it Finite since since FA and original name are unknown, with a 10a/b rating.
Doing this would clear up confusion about the routes as well as credit Greg Lowe with an amazing FA. Jun 16, 2019
There are so few opportunities to sit around camp at the end of the day and pass along the history. This kind of stuff makes me want to have a coffee table guidebook made up solely of old fogey stories. I wish we could spend a month with guys like you, Kim Miller, Jonny Woodward, Brian Smoot, Paul Ross, Brian Cabe, et al and learn the full stories of their obscure, lonesome dramas. Feb 26, 2022