Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Infinite

5.11+ X, Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
FA: Greg Lowe, Kent Christianson, Rob Brown - 1967
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Clamshell
Warning Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

Greg originally rated this route 5.9+ and the line followed a deceptive path up the middle of the slab. Due to another route right next to it that shares the first pitch plus start of the second pitch, it seems that not many will repeat the original line or experience the original intent of this Greg Lowe masterpiece.

Some years ago writing on a thread for SuperTopo, Jeff Lowe had the following comment about 'Infinite'.

Hard Slab Climbs

 Nov 30, 2006 - 06:11pm PT

In the sixties in SLC we had already drunk the Kool-Aid. . .My cousin George climbed the Dorsal Fin with long run outs between chickenheads to drill from. It's still rated 10d. It was my first climb of that sort, when George took me to repeat it in 1967. I just thought it must be normal. I also really enjoyed the need for concentration and steady nerves. . . Probably the hardest slab climb in the country in those days was my brother, Greg's route, Infinite, in the City of Rocks. Infinite had lots of 5.10 spice climbing, and a 5.11c crux fully 30 feet above the last 1/4" bolt. Kim Miller made the second ascent in the mid 'seventies and I repeated it afterwards. These may have been the only ascents of the route early on . . . .

Location

Base of the Clamshell - upper City of Rocks.  Pitch 1 goes over the roof at the lowest part of the wall (old bolt) and ends at what used to be a two pin (lost arrows) anchor.  The original Lowe route goes left, undercling, and into a shallow grove that you need to step out of via a layback.  Clip the bolt and head for a small tree.  It gets steeper and steeper.  The danger would be falling and sliding down the groove and tripping over the rope that crosses it.

Protection

Mostly old quarter inch bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View of the 2nd and 3rd pitch.  <br>
<br>
Standing below the crux runout contemplating how to get to the ledge.<br>
<br>
Looks easy, doesn't it!
[Hide Photo] View of the 2nd and 3rd pitch. Standing below the crux runout contemplating how to get to the ledge. Looks easy, doesn't it!
Starting the first pitch off the ground.<br>
<br>
Dressed for success!  Oct '76
[Hide Photo] Starting the first pitch off the ground. Dressed for success! Oct '76
Starting the crux pitch.  Dave Smith belaying from pins.
[Hide Photo] Starting the crux pitch. Dave Smith belaying from pins.
Overhang on the first pitch.
[Hide Photo] Overhang on the first pitch.
1st quarter inch bolt before going into the corner on the second pitch, worthy of maintenance?
[Hide Photo] 1st quarter inch bolt before going into the corner on the second pitch, worthy of maintenance?
Stepping into the groove halfway up the crux pitch.
[Hide Photo] Stepping into the groove halfway up the crux pitch.
D buns
[Hide Photo] D buns

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Cool to add this bit of lost history. Thanks.

Most impressive Kim. I'm doubting any others have done this? Nov 26, 2011
Brian in SLC
Sandy, UT
[Hide Comment] Wow, Kim, you're one of the very few persons that could enter this route in the database.

Scary looking, to say the least.

No waitin' in line for this one! Dec 1, 2011
Kaylee Catmull
Riverside, CA
[Hide Comment] RKM thanks for the bit of history. Too bad the Lowe route got bolted and that adventure was lost to history. May 27, 2013
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
[Hide Comment] This is the first time I have read a detailed description of the climb outside of the short guidebook description, and I am thoroughly impressed. It is a shame that such an early and bold route has been taken from the few who would dare to court it even today. Jan 4, 2014
[Hide Comment] Why not restore the route? Jun 5, 2015
Jay Goodwin
OR-NV-CA-ID-WY
[Hide Comment] Thanks, RKM, for the photos and info. And hats off to you for this ascent. I never knew where Lowe's original line was other than to climber's left and the rumor was one or two bolts on the entire, difficult pitch. Knowing that finding those bolts was unlikely in that giant sea of stone, and not being brave enough to commit to a no-pro lead (ground fall almost the entire pitch) if I didn't find the bolts, I never seriously considered trying to do the route. Nov 17, 2018
Jay Goodwin
OR-NV-CA-ID-WY
[Hide Comment] I want to correct some info regarding the history of the bolted variation to the right of Greg's original line, and also to say that I agree with Bingham - you can still do Infinite as Greg created it though you would probably need to skip a clip.

The first time I went to climb Infinite (1982 or 83?), knowing only that it was hard and on the Clam Shell, I found an old aluminum hanger bolt under a overhanging cluster of small flakes. This bolt is what you see clipped in RKM's first photo. Pull the overhang and follow the arching crack/flake right another 10-15 feet to pins marking the first belay; the first pitch was something like 30 feet long. From the first belay (pins), you could see bolts (I think there are four bolts) to climber's left that went straight up to a steep, short bulge on top of which was a small tree (an obvious location for the second belay). The first time I was ever on the Clamshell, the bolted variation to Infinte was already there; I did not put up the variation or place these bolts. It is a good line, and four bolts on a 125' pitch is not bolted to hell in my book. I doubt the bolts went in on rappel; they are far apart and, as I recall, at stances, and having put up a lot of face climbs, I think they went in on lead. And no one was bolting on rappel at the time - that came later. Though I did not put up the bolted variation; I like it and probably would have if someone else hadn't already. The variation second pitch following these bolts was long, with the bulge at the top being the crux well above the last bolt, and rope drag was ....a drag. The final third pitch above the tree was unprotected, relatively easy, got easier as you climbed and the angle of the slab kicked back. Nov 17, 2018
Jay Goodwin
OR-NV-CA-ID-WY
[Hide Comment] Thinking that this bolt line was Infinite, and knowing that rope drag was bad on the second pitch and that the first pitch was super short, I thought that moving the belay to the first bolt of the bolted line would fix the rope drag problem and about double the length of the first micro pitch. I talked with Dave Bingham about this, and Dave said he would ask Greg Lowe about moving the belay. What I recall Dave telling me was that Greg said something along the line of 'go ahead, why not? The route has already been altered/ruined/bastardized' - I can't remember the words but it was that the route had already been modified and was degraded. So with that ringing endorsement, I added a second bolt at the first bolt on the bolted variation, creating a new first belay location. Nov 17, 2018
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, ID
  5.11+ X
[Hide Comment] Thanks Jay for the new information on this obscure but historic route. I wonder who put the bolts in on the “Retrofit Route”. Maybe someone will read this and fill in the blanks. Also, I have wondered what this route would be like with the new sticky rubber. Might be just 5.9! Nov 23, 2018
Jay Goodwin
OR-NV-CA-ID-WY
[Hide Comment] Lowe did some creative experimenting with climbing shoe soles is the story I have heard. Would be interesting to know if any of this experimentation involved this route.

It would be interesting to know who put up the variation. Someone passing through seems unlikely given the approach but maybe there was a group who learned of the test piece back in the day. My guess, however, is someone 'local' - out of northern UT (Logan, Ogden, SLC, Provo) or maybe Ketchum area. It is a good route. Nov 29, 2018
Jay Goodwin
OR-NV-CA-ID-WY
[Hide Comment] To clarify things regarding Infinite, I suggest that a photo/topo here on MP (hint to RKM) and in future editions of City of Rocks guidebooks (wink to Dave B) show Greg's original line and call it Infinite with RKM's 11X rating. RKM is probably one of the two or three people who could draw in the line of Infinite. Note bolt locations if possible!

I suggest the bolted variation to the right of Infinite be shown as another route, as it would be treated in any guidebook. I suggest calling it Finite since since FA and original name are unknown, with a 10a/b rating.

Doing this would clear up confusion about the routes as well as credit Greg Lowe with an amazing FA. Jun 16, 2019
[Hide Comment] @DaveBingham, I can't imagine how hard it must be to produce and edit a guidebook. Seriously, many times have you known cool stories about the events and evolution of different climbs, then tried to condense them into the publication limitations.

There are so few opportunities to sit around camp at the end of the day and pass along the history. This kind of stuff makes me want to have a coffee table guidebook made up solely of old fogey stories. I wish we could spend a month with guys like you, Kim Miller, Jonny Woodward, Brian Smoot, Paul Ross, Brian Cabe, et al and learn the full stories of their obscure, lonesome dramas. Feb 26, 2022