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Waterfall
WI3,
Ice,
Avg: 2.3 from 66
votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire
> NH Ice & Mixed
> Frankenstein Ice
> 6. Standard Route Area
Access Issue: Avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible.
Details
The Conway Scenic Railroad will be active in Crawford Notch this winter. It is critically important for climbers to avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible. In an effort to minimize time spent on the tracks we are asking that you please take the Frankenstein Cliff Trail to the Amphitheater when climbing at Frankenstein, instead of walking on the tracks directly from the parking lot. Please do not leave packs, gear, or ropes on or near the rails, and avoid belaying near the tracks. Be prepared for trains to pass at any time, all winter.
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
Description
Work your way up a wide, well-defined gully on moderate, tiered ice. Trending left seems to have more reliably thick ice but is steeper. Staying right is easier, but often thinner.
This climb makes a decent alternative if there's a circus on Standard Route.
Location
Roughly 100 yards left of Standard Route. Easily visible from the train tracks. You can't miss it.
Protection
Screws. Good-sized trees to belay from at the top.
[ NOTE: Descent- 2 ropes to rap is a good idea; we got off with a single 70m but 2 ropes would have been better. R Hall NH Admin. ]
[Hide Photo] "WaterFall" area as it appears from just above the RR Tracks
New Paltz, NY
North Conway, NH
Shrewsbury, MA
North Conway, NH
But for what it’s worth one of the great lessons in ice climbing is learning that “ It’s ALWAYS steeper than it looks”. And just like pure friction climbing, just a small change in angle can make a big difference in difficulty.
Welcome to the club! Feb 9, 2024