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Loggerhead Ledge Route
Trad, 240 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 2 from 8
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> El Cap Picnic Area
> Loggerhead Buttress
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
This climb can be done in two pitches but three is recommended.
Pitch 1) Climb a groove 5.6 with good pro 50ft. to a tree on a ledge.
Pitch 2) Jam cracks, finger locks, and chicken wings 5.7 take you 110ft to a large ledge with a tree directly below a dark chimney.
Pitch 3) Proceed into chimney and grovel your way up until a chockstone blocks your progress. Stem out of the chimney and pull yourself over the chockstone 5.4. Gain the Loggerhead Ledge. 80ft.
This is one of the better ledges in the Valley. Hang out, eat lunch, and make two raps with one 70m rope: From the chains on the east edge of the ledge rap once to the top of Simian Sex, then make one more 35m rap. With one 70m rope, you will need to downclimb easy rock for about 5ft. to reach the ground.
This route is located about 1/3 of the way up from the toe of the buttress, and is identified by the groove that marks the first pitch.
Carry gear to 4.5 in. and include plenty of long runners.