PRINT: Rock Climb Real Men Eat Eggs, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Real Men Eat Eggs

5.11+ R, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Matt Lloyd
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Below Low…

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

This really is not a new route but a variation to two already existing great routes. Climb "Breakfast Of Champions" for a few moves clip the fixed wire and traverse right through the steep blank looking rock to the end of "Captain Crunch" just below the last bolt (FA chose to skip the bolt) on the route. Then climb the last 15 feet of Captain Crunch.

Location

The Pick Pocket Wall.

Protection

Bring a small RP, a few small BD wires and a grey Metolius FCU and run it out.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Real Men Eat Eggs, 5.11+ R.

Matt Lloyd on the FA of the variation route "Real Men Eats Eggs", 5.11+ R.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Scott Bennett
Western North America

Nice work buddy, who says Eldo is climbed out!

BTW- the route would not really be "R" if you clip the bolt on CC (maybe only pg-13), but Matt decided that it would be a better route if it was put up with all natural gear. Also, double ropes really help, since the pro in the BoC corner and the pro after the traverse to CC are at the same height.

-Scott May 20, 2009