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Alcove Crack

5.5, Trad,  Avg: 1.7 from 33 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > Rumney > Jimmy Cliff

Description

Definitely a worthy route though perhaps a bit overgrown at times. As with many Rumney trad routes, it suffers from under use.  If you are a sporty climber looking for trad practice it's a good option.   

Locate the obvious crack in the corner of the alcove. Jam and pull up a steeper section making use of the ledges where you can, then up through the lower angle top half. You used to have to belay from a pine tree, but now you can share the anchor of Things I Never Learned. 

Location

In the corner of the alcove area of Jimmy Cliff. To the right of things as they are etc and to the left of the moderates on the right wall. It's a pretty obvious crack.

Protection

Regular rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kevin with the fancy footwork on Alcove Crack.
[Hide Photo] Kevin with the fancy footwork on Alcove Crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] As Lee stated, could've been an excellent climb if it was cleaner. At the moment it's dirty and wet - spices up the climb a grade maybe... Oct 24, 2009
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
[Hide Comment] Natasha and I climbed this today. We started up the corner and made a fun left heel rockover onto the big ledge where Easter Squall heads up. Surmounting another bulge, we escaped to the right and up the crack left of Things I Never Learned. We stole the bolted anchor above and both REALLY enjoyed the route. It was dry today and not dirty at all! It almost felt like someone cleaned it up... but I doubt that. I'd definitely climb it again. Oct 11, 2012
Ben Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
[Hide Comment] Many spiders. Fun moves, definitely needs cleaning as per everyone else's opinion! Sep 8, 2013
LB Edwards
Austin, TX
  5.5
[Hide Comment] It was fun, short and slightly awkward for the overhanging corner, but fun none-the-less. I'm giving it 3 cause it should be climbed more often if you're sick enough to carry trad gear all that way. Aug 18, 2017
M Sprague
New England
[Hide Comment] "all that way", lol Aug 18, 2017
[Hide Comment] "Dirty" and under-climbed was the inference when we walked by this year. More power to you for leading it!
Get with the program, Mark, anything more than 5 minutes is a sick approach. I demand routes I can belay from the comfort of my car. :) Aug 18, 2017
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
[Hide Comment] If there were separate anchors at the top for this and TINL, I bet the hammock horde would welcome a visit from the bolt fairy and this route would collect dirt no more, joining the ranks of other hated/coveted "T,S" routes. Aug 18, 2017