PRINT: Rock Climb Hellraiser, Joshua Tree National Park

Hellraiser

5.10b, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 1.9 from 14 votes
FA: Alan Bartlett, Dave Haber, Sheryl Haber, Rick Briggs & Brandt Allen, Aug 1992
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Sheep Pass Area > Hall of Horrors… > Hall of Horrors > E Wall Outer (Creatur…

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Located at Hall of Horrors East Wall - Den of Doom, left (west) of Rocky Horror Picture Show and below it in a narrow corridor on a short southeast facing face with a giant white flake. Face climb up and left to the left side of the flake and then up and right along the left side of the flake.

Location

Down climb the back side easily puts you back at the base in seconds.

Protection

Five bolts protect this route nicely. Bolt anchor. The first bolt is shared with another route that goes straight up the spoogy white face. A #1 camelot can protect moves to reach the first bolt if you feel the need for it.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Spicy solo to the 1st placement

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA

5.10b

Got back on this after many years and found it to be a fun and incredibly varied outing.

Steep somewhat loose rock at the start (#1 Camalot) gets you to a small stance to clip the 1st bolt. Move slightly down and left to reach the 2nd bolt, lieback up a flake that turns into a right-slanting ramp which is followed to the last bolt where tenuous climbing up bumps gains the top. Three stars out of five.

The anchor is about 15' back from the lip and as noted the downclimb is casual. Feb 22, 2010

Kelly Corbin
Aptos, CA

As of 9/12/14 there are two bolts but only one hanger for the anchor. BYOH Sep 13, 2014

Clayton Rardon
Yucca Valley, CA

5.10a/b

there are two sets of anchors as of 6/24/16, but one set is missing a hanger (the set of anchors on the climbers left). To set up a TR, I recommend bringing static line, webbing or very long slings to get your master point over the lip. Walk off to the climbers right; it's literally a walk off with zero down climbing. Jun 29, 2016

Dimes
Joshua Tree, Ca.

All of the lead bolts and both the anchor bolts on top of this route were replaced today with 1/2” SS bolts and rock colored hangers. Feb 2, 2018

Matt Hagny

5.10a

Very interesting moves getting from the first bolt to the second. I need to ask someone in the FA party just what was intended with that bolt placement. Good route. Bring something to extend and equalize the anchor bolts if setting up TR -- the top anchors are in a bowl-like feature at the very top (horizontal) Feb 15, 2019

Jaime BB
San Diego, CA

5.10b

A .5 and .75 works in the horizontal before the first bolt, I used both pieces. Clipping the bolt was awkward, so I highly recommend using the gear. I also reached back after clipping the 2nd bolt and unclipped the 1st and the gear to reduce drag. Last bolt had me sweating, although easy climbing at that point, it’s really crumbly grit and all footwork. Mar 20, 2023