[Hide Comment] P6. Climb through blocky headwall, moving right then up a shallow lt-facing corner to slabs. Continue w/poor protection to the cow's mouth.

The description from Rock Climbing New England (S. Green) Pitch 6: A long, scary lead with dubious protection and tricky crux. Surmount a steep headwall (5.10) and climb a left-facing corner to easier slabs above to belay in the Cow’s Mouth.

Can you give me beta on the "scary lead with dubious protection" Any recent Beta???

Thanks a lot
Paul Aug 17, 2009

[Hide Comment] On P6 we climbed right from belay under roof and up a short left facing corner, two not great pins here and nothing else I could find. Next traverse left a bit and clip another pin just over lip and over into shallow right facing corner. This section is hard and daring. Next move up and right heading towards the right side of a massive tottering pillar which seems like it should fall off any moment now. Gear is challenging through this section and we tried to stay off the pillar as much as possible. From even with the pillar go up and right to the belay in left side of cow's mouth.

Note that the climbing after the 5.11 slab moves on P5 is engaging with not the best gear. 5 and 6 are heady pitches.

Also, we did two full rope length pitches directly above the cow's mouth and they were challenging with long runouts, route finding, wet slippery mossy sections, grass hummock clawing....oh and lots black flies. Not the "easy slabs" we were expecting.

Keep right through the krumholtz along the top of cliff and look for the big square "heli pad", a good trail passes along the south/east corner of it which leads down around to the base.

This is a hard route and is not the place for the average 5.10 leader. Aug 19, 2009

[Hide Comment] We did the first four pitches yesterday with the straight up variation on the third pitch. The route is fantastic. Beautiful thin crack and corner climbing.
We had 2 ropes for rappelling, but it looked to me like a single 70M rope would get you down.
Bring RP's and wires and many finger sized cams. I don't think that we placed anything bigger than a green Camalot on the route. Sep 14, 2009

[Hide Comment] Pitch 5 is hard. Feb 26, 2010

[Hide Comment] Thanks for the beta. It helped. I did VMC DD July 2010. The pitch 6th of VMC is still Quite scary although climbing is easier. You can stretch pitch 5 through overlap and then move left to a new bolted belay. Then do the rest of old pitch 6th together with pitch 7th. Cows mouth was the crux for me. It is probably easier for people with smaller hands-you can place them fully into the crack. I highly recommend taping just for that move. Move right after Cows mouth to find a rap station. You can rap the route without the last 5.6 crappy pitches full of black flies. Jul 9, 2010

[Hide Comment] Thanks for all of your comments, they provided some crucial info for my and my friend's ascent. Joe Vitti's description is a pretty accurate account of our experience on this climb. The first 4 pitches were beautiful, great climbing, and went way too fast. The following 5 pitches (or 6? who knows) were slow going, with loose rock, wet sections, and difficult routefinding. The two or three pitches we did after the cow's mouth were runout on sketchy rock, with no real landmarks.

If I were to do it again I would almost certainly rap off the 4th pitch... maybe even climb them again.

(Disclaimer - I haven't lead this route yet, only followed) May 10, 2012

[Hide Comment] Best route in the East.
Would have been happier with two green aliens or the like for the second pitch instead of just the one.
Also, going right then up at the start of P5 looked very unlikely. Going straight up was very hard and reachy but only for a couple of moves until you reach a nice horizontal break. Sep 29, 2012

[Hide Comment] Rich-- your ready for Lab Wall direct finish..... Sep 30, 2012

[Hide Comment] A classic NH sandbag Aug 4, 2013

[Hide Comment] I strongly recommend bringing double ropes if you have them. It made the wandering second pitch effortless (at least in terms of rope drag) and allows you to get down in two raps from the top of P4.

I feel compelled to add that this route is amazing... it could give any yosemite climb of the same grade a run for its money. Honestly though, pitch 2 would most likely check in around 11b at many other areas. The straight up variation on the 3rd pitch felt pretty cruiser, I wouldn't recommend going right.

If it's within your abilities it shouldn't be missed! Oct 20, 2013

[Hide Comment] Will,

Glad you liked the route. I've done the route many times, and just repeated it a few weeks ago.

If you have real fat fingers, like me, I think the second pitch could be in the 5.11 class, but the 3rd pitch is definitely still 10+.

At 67, I generally don't get up 5.11 clean, and still manage the steller 3rd pitch O.K. Just my 2 cents opinion.

Bringing 2 ropes is a good idea if you intend to rap. Oct 24, 2013

[Hide Comment] Good lad Steve .. Pleased your still at it .. Nov 16, 2013

[Hide Comment] Agreed, Steve. Perhaps my wording was unclear (now revised). I thought the second pitch felt like 11- and the third was a fairly straightforward 10 crux into an endurance section where the dihedral gets steeper, making it feel like 10+. Its nice there are some fixed pieces up near the top of the corner where you start to feel gassed. The right variation on p3, supposedly easier at 10-, looked harder, although it has a couple convenient shiny bolts.

Numbers aside, its a great route. I wouldn't recommend it for the inexperienced, though.

Another note - Steve, I had the pleasure of meeting you at the barber wall in late October and its great to see you're still cranking! I forgot you put up VMC DD or I would've asked to hear your account of the FA! Dec 19, 2013

[Hide Comment] I'm wondering, are you allowed to bivy on the big wall, because I know you are not allowed at cathedral. I am wondering this just so I can get used to bivying on walls for some up coming plans to go to Yosemite. Mar 6, 2014

[Hide Comment] No camping in Franconia Notch State Park except at Lafayette Campground. But I don't think anyone will bother you on the wall, have fun! Mar 8, 2014

[Hide Comment] Many climbers do not realize this, but on the 1st ascent of this route and the older VMC direct, the "Cow's Mouth pitch, did NOT go straight up thru the jam crack roof, (pitch 7), but instead, went horizontally right thru an awkward horizontal chimney, with huge exposure.

Your back is up against a horizontal roof, and you chimney right about 15 feet. There is protection in front of you, as you go right, (used to be baby angles, but now would be aliens). This is about 5.7, but feels harder). After chimney, step left and go straight up.

I've climbed this route many times and this pitch, done this way, is quite different than anything else I've done except the "Ear" pitch on the Salathe Wall. Nov 23, 2014

[Hide Comment] What techniques are important to train when training for VMC-direct? From the pics it looks like there is a lot of laid-back and smearing. Dec 6, 2014

[Hide Comment] Hi Kristian. There is a fair bit of laybacking and stemming, but none of it is super-technical or strenuous or weird (although it is a little of all three). The technical crux for most people is the undercling/smear on P.2., and the best training for that would be to whittle your fingertips way down (the undercling is really skinny). Smearing, as is true for so many NH routes, is key in several places: and the best way to train for that is probably high-angle-smeary bouldering. There are some tough face moves up high, too (P.5) The route is just plain fun and I don't think it requires any specific training. Just be strong, flexible, and have great technique and endurance. Yeah, that ought to do it...LOL. Get on it! It's top 10 in NE for sure! Jan 14, 2015

[Hide Comment] Thanks for that, Peter! I guess I'll just have to practise on other Cannon-routes just to get that granite-flake feeling :-) Mar 22, 2015

[Hide Comment] How is the beta for start of P6? Straight up from the belay, or traverse out right and then up? I've seen both been described, but both options are pretty hairy. Jul 27, 2015

[Hide Comment] I don't doubt that things have changed up there. I always found that the route got a bit less defined the higher you go. I would bet that many people do maybe the first 3-4 pitches ?

P6 is the one going in to the Cow's mouth ? steepish headwall/slab then a corner ? Jul 27, 2015

[Hide Comment] The pitch before the cow's mouth. Jul 29, 2015

[Hide Comment] Nice climb. Roof crack through the cows mouth was a fun variation. Raps were super clean and I'm guessing more enjoyable than the slog down through the trees.

Note. Despite being nice and shiny, both belay bolts on the top of p2 are loose/ move when pulled on by hand (especially the right bolt) Tightened them as much as I could with my shitty nut tool wrench, but the right one is still pretty loose. Just a heads up. Aug 19, 2015

[Hide Comment] If you haven't seen this gigapan image of Cannon Cliff yet....it's very cool. Crazy how far you can zoom in on the routes.
Credit:Jim Surette

gigapan.com/gigapans/148041 Aug 25, 2015

[Hide Comment] Cow's mouth. Facing cliff you take the arching crack on left, correct? Straight up from bolt.
Looked easy, felt very tough.
The MP description says right, is it typo? Aug 31, 2015

[Hide Comment] It climbs out the undercling/roof crack on the right, no bolts. That's the way that we went anyway.....short and stout. Sep 2, 2015

[Hide Comment] Pitch 6 is down to one pin that is rusted out to the point where it's flexing. There is marginal protection before pulling the 10+ slab section in the form of a green alien. I didn't expect it to be load bearing, which my belayer confirmed after it pulled out upon moving past. About 30 ft into the pitch I slung a chockstone with dyneema (full width nylon was too wide) and ran it to the anchors from there. This was the spiciest pitch for me, and also had the worst rock quality. Making it the most memorable! Definitely seemed like 5.10+ R in it's current condition. Sep 27, 2015

[Hide Comment] I don't remember there being a pin to protect the crux moves on p6.....I was up there a year ago. I remember placing a pretty good finger size piece above the bulge/crux and then pulling left over the bulge. After the crux is prob only 5.8/5.9 up to the cows mouth....but with scarce gear and crappy rock.
5.10+ 5.8R sounds about right Sep 28, 2015

[Hide Comment] Can someone please comment on the belays at the top of each pitch (bolts / gear) is it possible to retreat / rap down the route (without leaving gear) Jul 7, 2016

[Hide Comment] Hey ESS,
We did the first four pitches yesterday, all have bolts with rings at the top. The bolts atop the first pitch are a bit iffy and the bolts above the third are solid but offset vertically by about a foot so only one would be weighted on rappel. My recommendation would be to bring two ropes and double rope rap from the top of p4 and p2. I can't speak to the higher pitches. Hope this helps. Sep 27, 2016

[Hide Comment] Question regarding the pitch leading out of the cow's mouth - is the standard to go via the left or right side of the cave (looking at the cave)? Yesterday we linked from the lower anchor from below the overlap (not stopping at the cave to belay) and up the left side (looking at the cave) and it was a fantastic pitch! Oct 13, 2016

[Hide Comment] A bit more beta on the pitches 5, 6, and 7.

From the top of pitch 4, you will see looming above you a large, tan, vertical strip of rotten rock. To the right of this is an angled stem chimney, to the right of this is a cave, which is the Cow's Mouth. This is what you are aiming for.

On pitch 6, poorly protected moves go up a corner system to the right, with a single pin that flexes ominously (but surprisingly caught my friend's lead fall when his piece blew). Getting up this column took a potentially not horrible .2/.3 offset cam, before a not-too-hard move (9+) past the overlap.

From here, it gets messy. The tottering pillar is partly collapsed now. I wound up going straight up, which led me to clipping an anchor below and just left of the tan rotten rock strip, which might be part of One Drop of Water. I suggest going right earlier, perhaps immediately after getting over the overlap. I wound up getting up to the rotten strip, traversing right around large blocks that if they fell it would have been on top of me (R/X). Some fixed tricams and algae-covered traversing brought me over to an anchor on the left side of the Cow's mouth (pins and a bolt), which once you started was too short and not all that engaging. There was a new shiny pair of bolts/rings right above and slightly left of the Cow's mouth, making double rope rappels from right before the slabs a breeze.

I know that people like me read the comments saying only do the first 4 pitches and say "ah, but where's the adventure in that!" To you, I say enjoy the adventure. I will only do the first 4 pitches now and save the feeling of impending doom for a more worthwhile section of rock. Maybe I'd do the hard friction move again. Oct 22, 2017

[Hide Comment] Climbed the route 8/2/19.
Pitch 6 is altered. The huge dark obelisk fell down .
As you traverse /diagonal right, the only pro is old bolt ( really bad, like Salvador Dali melting sculpture bad) . It’s 5.7R , and wet most of the time.
Going straight up from pitch 5 final headwall ( or traversing right low early in pitch 6 ) may be better. New guidebook describes it as option.
The good news is that pitch 5 seemed much cleaner , I think some lose rock came down with the obelisk.
I added photos. Aug 4, 2019

[Hide Comment] A full value climb. Great pitches, alpine pitches, and full on swamp pitches to escape (was wet and got wetter day of).
To climb the route is to summit the mountain imo, but definitely felt R at times, might be worth it on the right day and not others! .
First climb in the North East and super impressed! Sep 12, 2019

[Hide Comment] what. a. route. this is one of those climbs you never forget. i've done this thing 4 times in 4 years, and *finally* got the chance to do the crux pitch when it wasn't wet. Most of the time it ranges from "quite damp" to "swampy waterfall". Can confirm its still hard when dry :)

Crux gear ranges from #1 mastercam to #0.4 BD, and there is plenty of it, but key strategy seems to be slam in a good piece or two early, and then just go for the full traverse. The fall is clean, and you can back-place something for the second once you finish the crux. Double ropes highly recommended, and make sure you clip them both such that they don't run through the corner of the roof crack, or you will regret it when doing delicate stem-moves above.

edit to add that a pendulum fall for the second would be clean at the crux, but if you are going to run it out and you think your second will fall, make sure they can climb the rope, because they would be in pretty blank territory. Jul 1, 2020

[Hide Comment] Kudos to Dalan from Texas for choosing, and climbing, VMC DD as your first route in the Northeast! Proud. Jul 1, 2020

[Hide Comment] Did the first 3 pitches the other day. Stout climbing and great rock!
I think that the 3rd pitch anchor should be adjusted if possible, they are just so different in height.
The first pitch anchor is also in bad shape and could use two bolts to keep everyone safe.

And a single 70m (or 65m in our case) got us down in 3 raps. Jul 20, 2022

[Hide Comment] I want to second Joe's comment as accurate. Read Joe's description, (the second comment, from 2009) then read it again.

Addition: there is only one VERY suspect pin off the belay for P6. I was able to get a blue ballnut in ~3' above the pin as the last piece of pro before pulling the insecure crux. Do not take this lightly. 5.10 R

Gear beta: doubles to #1, 1x #2, micronuts, ballnutz. Aug 1, 2022

[Hide Comment] Rockfall from higher up this spring may have affecting p4. Square-cut holds on the hanging slab are no longer nice and square-cut, making the moves onto the slab considerably harder than they used to be.

Crumbly rock right off of the p3 belay also shows signs of fresh scarring, and the old pin that used to be there is gone. Easy climbing through this to the first bolt, but pull down, not out! Jul 24, 2025

[Hide Comment] After climbing the full route yesterday, I'd like to give some pitch to pitch beta that either hasn't been mentioned, or more consolidated here, that I would have liked to know before starting the route!

P1: Nothing to write home about, except for the bolt anchors at the top being by far the worst quality of the anchors in terms of rust and spinnyness. 5.7

P2: Definitely better to belay this pitch double rope to avoid the rope sinking into crack. We had 2 followers per pitch, so it wasn't possible to do this and also protect the follower adequately, so the leader clipped both ropes to all pieces and got hosed. The move around the corner is not that reachy, just powerful. I hope you like hanging belays, because the belay at the top of this pitch is the last with a nice ledge to stretch out your hips. Most G pitch of the climb. Felt not that bad, but I was fresh and following. Hard 5.10 soft 5.11 maybe.

P3: Money pitch for sure in the corner, however the two options at the top, whether to continue straight in the corner, or bust out right, are both probably 5.10+ PG-13 in my opinion. At the point where the two paths diverge, the crack in the corner runs out for 20 ish feet and is just a smooth corner that you cannot put gear into until it opens back up again. Doing the undercling traverse out right is definitely better protected at the start, but then at the end of the traverse, once you mantle into a no hands rest with a bolt at your face, mandatory 5.10 face climbing moves with no pro await you, runout, until you can clip another bolt. First really airy section of the climb, many to follow. Anchors at the top of this pitch are weirdly not at the same height, which is annoying.

P4: Rotten rock in a dike into a bolt about 30 feet up. Place some pro in the right facing corner crack, and then figure out how to balance/step out onto the left face. Some face climbing on full pad crimps is required before being able to clip a bolt. A nice set of rap anchors awaits you. 5.10- PG or maybe PG-13

P5: Crux slab bolt right off the hanging belay is only about a foot above the anchors. Make sure your belayer is out of the way or else you're falling straight on top of them. Continuing out left and up with spicy pro and quite a bit of choss. Decent but slightly rusty bolted anchor. 5.11 PG-13

P6: The heinous sounding and looking pitch that was at first my lead, but I convinced one of my partners to take it instead lol. Traverse with some surprisingly hard moves out right, clipping some pitons. Make your way up into a corner. About 30ft up high in the corner is actually a pretty decent bolt. But that's where it ends for this pitch for "niceness" because the rest of the pitch going up to the cow's mouth is rotten rock, poorly protected, and also hard! The anchors on the left wall of the cow's mouth ledge consists of one bolt and a couple high pitons. 5.10 R

P7: 30ft from the bottom of the cow's mouth to the top. Short and to the point, easy to place a 0.4 cam in the roof before pulling the move, backing up a piton. Probably a V2 boulder problem, although pretty hard after climbing a bunch of nails 5.10. Also, I was really hoping that the "nice holds" around the roof were going to be sinker jugs, but you have to actually sauce some shallow finger cracks for a little longer than expected, until getting a sinker hand jam. A nice set of bolts on a small ledge to stand on, the last bolts of the climb. V2/3 or 5.10+

P8: Don't celebrate too early at the P7 anchors, because the pitches to the top are fairly heinous. Spy whatever weaknesses you can to make it up, however it ain't clean "5.6" climbing. It consists of blocky 4th class, runout friction slab, and the occasional 5.8/5.9 move. Keep it together, because you don't want to fall here. Chossy as anything and everything. Not so "easy slabs". Eban belayed in a dirty enclosed flat spot with a decent gear anchor. 5.???? R and also WTF

P9: Another pitch of messed up groveling, including making your way through a lot of spiky bushes that are also steep. I grabbed at a lot of grass because that was much better than the crumbly rock. Lucas found a nice boulder to belay in at the top which took finger sized pieces, marking the end of the climb. At this point it is safe to unrope and walk up along rocks to find the trail back down to Moby grape decent trail.

Definitely was a serious adventure and challenge to take this one all the way to the top! Also, I second Christian Eaton's pro beta. We brought triples in fingers and double #2s, and it wasn't required. Tiny nuts and cams, double fingers to #1, and a single #2 will suffice. What a crazy steep route too, you can see the drop all the way to the ground for the entire climb! Sep 21, 2025