[Hide Comment] the alt route directly one pitch lower brings you up through a tree, but makes for a great warm up Nov 7, 2007

[Hide Comment] Not sure if this is what juggy meant, but doing the first pitch of dislocation buttress to get to pine tree ledge is a great warmup. Starts with the dihedral that's pretty much exactly where the trail drops you off at the base of the slabs. After that pitch there's a nice little unroped traverse off to climber's left to start dislocation direct. Nov 7, 2010

[Hide Comment] Great climb! We started on the Pine Tree Ledge. I would recommend doing it in 3 pitches to stop on the best ledges and limit rope drag.

From the Pine Tree Ledge climb about 70' and stop at the quartz band on a nice ledge. Link 2 and 3 for about a 100' pitch and stop on another nice ledge below broken blocks. P3 is 40' of fun jamming that leads to 3rd class terrain to the walk off trail. Sep 19, 2011

[Hide Comment] We just did it in 4 pitches; like Tim's description but we added the first pitch of Dislocation and walked left to the start of Direct. I could have run the last two together but was worried about drag. Nov 26, 2012

[Hide Comment] We did in three picthes, but I can easily see how two would make it easier. Last part above a short dihedral is pretty much 4th class scramble to the top of the formation Jul 17, 2014

[Hide Comment] This route is a lot of fun and easily protected. I would say the rating is sandbagged for sure, at least coming from mostly sport climbing ratings I would call this a solid 5.8 for the most part, with perhaps a 5.9 move or two in it.

We started with the first pitch of Dislocation Buttress, and moved left on the ledge to the start of Dislocation Direct, that 5.3/4 rating I would also call into question, unless you're very comfortable with dihedrals.

We did Dislocation Direct in 3 pitches following Tim's advice. First pitch is a fun slabby crack climb onto a large ledge with a hole you can anchor into. Second pitch is super fun, varied climbing with corners, flakes and friction moves, ending on the ledge with the loose blocks (I moved past stuck nut). The third pitch is short and relatively easy (up slightly left of belay), into scramble terrain.

I placed a decent amount of mid-sized nuts as well as mid-sized cams (BD .3 to 3). Brought a BD 4 but never placed. The route is pretty easily protected, but just beware that belays are not bolted, and past the ledge with the hole you can thread there isn't much rapping unless you leave gear or are willing to sling some (potentially questionable) blocks.

We walked off, going straight down the wash to arrive at our backpacks. Just be careful to keep close to the wall on descent, as there is a bit of a notch/ridge on the left side of the main wash that you need to keep to your right. Sep 5, 2016

[Hide Comment] The first pitch of Dislocation Direct starts at the base of the wall from the approach trail and climbs a small arete with thin cracks to a moderate section of face climbing past a bolt that leads to Pine Tree Ledge and the first pitch mentioned here. Cramer's guide calls it direct direct. My understanding is that this is the original Dislocation Direct start. Either way it is not to be missed. Nov 15, 2019

[Hide Comment] Yes, just did that lower pitch below pine tree ledge.. its good. More of a face pitch and a little bit runout and harder than the upper pitches. There is a bolt a little ways up the arete right about when you're really needing it. Pro can be found in horizontals, which also provide super positive handholds. You can either go up and right or up and left from the first bolt. I believe if you go up and left its easier, and if I'm remembering correctly, there's another bolt for pulling through the steepest section.The pitch starts as Kevin described. I'll add that the start of it is about where you have to pull up and over that boulder chimney move when hiking up the trail. Feb 1, 2022

[Hide Comment] A great granite mountain classic route! A solid step up from Debut. There are a couple of crack moves that seem 5.7 to me. Fortunately the route protects really well. Also, instead of doing the last pitch of Dislocation, you can step left and climb a large obvious corner system with a fist/ow crack to the top. This is the last pitch of Weeny Roast. A true sandbag at 5.6+!! More like 5.9! And a classic pitch! Mar 16, 2022

[Hide Comment] Beta video: youtu.be/YopaOKc1oEU?si=cBk… Nov 25, 2023

[Hide Comment] A good route. There are 2 hard areas. One is the steepest part of the first pitch. The other crux is a finger crack dihedral on the second pitch. Last pitch was my favorite and only about 5.3. Beware that this is not your standard 5.6. the two hard areas felt like 5.9, and the rest 5.6/7. Sep 11, 2025