[Hide Comment] Interesting climbing up a vertical face utilizing cracks and face holds leads to the crux roof where a long reach to an incut plate enables access to the upper slabby face. Kind of a one-move wonder with the crux being out of place with the rest of the route. Highly recommended. Aug 16, 2010

[Hide Comment] Good route, not real hard, plenty of rests, and eats up pro, especially since there are a stack of bolts available for your clipping pleasure. I thought there was some fairly suspect loose rock just below the roof and I did not think the jug that forms the left edge of the roof could withstand my assault. Be careful if you are somewhat large or like to pull outwards on jugs. Anchors are a sad mess and do not have lower-offs on the bolts. Jul 10, 2011

[Hide Comment] As mentioned by Susan; there is a two-bolt anchor up and left of this one (as you arrive at the anchor), quite close. Also to the right of and behind the anchor (facing it) there is a nice crack, which would take some 2"-3" cams. If you're going to top-rope though you'll need to hike to the top and set the anchor up with long slings - or lead up with 'biners and a cordelette/webolette. Aug 1, 2011

[Hide Comment] What an amazing climb! This climb has a little of everything for you! I took a standard rack with me up the climb, and placed about 5 pieces below the first bolt. I had to do a couple finger jams on the lower sections of the climb. There is plenty of trad protection, but make sure you bring a rack with pieces up to 2". I placed a #1 below the crux and between the upper bolts. The bolt at the crux is above the roof, and unless you feel comfortable climbing past the lower section of the crux and relying on the bolt 5 feet below you, this cam is needed.

I used a 70m rope, and when I reached the ground, both ends of the rope were on the ground. I definitely recommend this climb! Great moves and great rock! Replacing the anchor at the top would make this climb a must do in the castle rock area! Aug 8, 2011

[Hide Comment] Anchors have been replaced as of May 12, 2012...with good solid bolts with lower off or rap chains. 5.10a/b sounds about right...Great great climb... May 13, 2012

[Hide Comment] Thanks todd! Jul 18, 2012

[Hide Comment] Thanks much for the bolt upgrade! Jul 22, 2012

[Hide Comment] Block at roof is marked as loose with chalk X. Looks dicey.... Oct 9, 2012

[Hide Comment] Did not see chalk X but a horizontal thin hold for the roof looks iffy. I went right and found another good hold above it. Sep 1, 2014

[Hide Comment] A solid 5-10a. Don't be fooled...from below, we thought that the thin cracks looked easy and that the roof would be the crux of the climb. My partner led this climb, and it is clear that the real business is that crack. It is an extremely technical crack and honestly, the roof is protected by bolts. Placing gear in that looked quite difficult (my partner was definitely climbing at his limit). The roof is harder than it once was. Not sure what you would rate that reach. The good hold on the left is indeed marked with an X and is about to break off. This forces you to work your feet higher and make a crazy reach to the right. Aug 18, 2015

[Hide Comment] Great route, solid 10a but not harder. There are many places to plug in pro in the section leading up to the bolts - I think I put in 4 pieces. The roof is no big deal; a left hand with a good opposing thumb slots perfectly high into the left-slanting crack above your head and to the right of the X marked block, then moving your feet up should allow you to easily gain the big jug/plate above the roof. This line is about two feet to the right of the beta photo posted here and follows the bolt line. I took Nelson's advice and placed a BD #1 cam between the roof bolts for peace of mind. I think there may have been a couple of extra bolts placed on the top slab (5.9). Total may now be about 9 bolts plus anchors. Chains at the top appear to be in good order. A 60m rope was *just* too short to reach the ground proper but if the belayer stands on one of the boulders at the bottom it will work out fine. Knot the end!

You can use a long bit of webbing to set up a TR for Kremlin Wall (11d, no route beta on MP but appears to follow some old sketchy bolts) on the face around the corner to the left, or King of the Castle (12a, no route beta on MP) which ascends the recently bolted arete just to the left of Knightline. Sep 6, 2016

[Hide Comment] fun route. i thought the crux was well below the roof at a layback flake with awkward polished feet. maybe between 2nd and 3rd bolt(?). roof is pretty straight forward. i avoided the first left hand jug of the roof, rock looked not-great. the spooky looking flakes below the roof didn't seem as bad as they look, but it is worthwhile to climb carefully here. the one thing that would make this route better would be to lower the anchors, maybe to the last bolt. this would a) save some wear and tear on your rope b) prevent gumbies from throwing down top-ropes on people leading the route :( May 11, 2020

[Hide Comment] I only needed 2 .75s to protect the bottom. If you can climb 5.10 the part before the bolts is easy!

Beautiful route - and the views from the top is great! Get on it! Jun 9, 2021

[Hide Comment] Not sure why this nice crack is so heavily bolted Jul 25, 2021

[Hide Comment] Fun route. Climbed this over the weekend and had the same questions as Dustin. Why bolts? Plenty of good gear placements before the roof and the "slab" above isn't really a "slab" more like cruiser face climbing with two spots to place gear. Out of curiosity, anyone know why this was bolted? Aug 17, 2021

[Hide Comment] Did it 2nd time today, thing was damn boiling in 10am sun,the red dihedral was radiating head, could feel it in my shoes, sweat in muh butt, put a #5 behind the flake, cuz me think itll go, damn good climb, Jul 24, 2022

[Hide Comment] The flake before the roof moves when you pull on it so take care to pull down and not out. It felt relatively solid for now but the day that thing pulls off is the day this climb gets a lot harder. Jun 16, 2025