PRINT: Rock Climb Count Floyd Show, Red River Gorge

Count Floyd Show

5.11b, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3.1 from 264 votes
FA: Porter Jarrard, Mark Strevels 1992
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Phantasia

Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…

Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.

Description

This climb has more technical movement but more rest than its lesser-rated neighbor. Which is actually harder depends on your skill and endurance. Climb the wandering line just left of the arete near "Creature Feature" past a series of cruxes and rests to a bolted anchor. It has been debated at length which climb is actually harder...

Location

Approach Phantasia Wall from the road via the main trail (right) and go slightly left at the split to the obvious low roof with bolts and a heavily plated, low-angle face above. This is Creature Feature. Just left of there, around the arete, are two sport routes. The nearer, to the right is Count Floyd Show (11b) and the further, to the left, is Creep Show (10d).

Protection

6 bolts to chains.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pulling off the ledge

Count Floyd Show (5.11b) 10/2016

Pushing through the pump, about to be rewarded with the no hands double knee. Bar.

Me working to the second clip on Count Floyd Show. Photo credit Seth McCubbin.

Chris working out the sequence on Count Floyd Show.

Count Floyd Show, climber can be seen at the anchors atop the ledge

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

randy baum

i think count floyd show is rated harder than creep show because the move over the roof/lip on count floyd show is harder than any single move on creep show. also, you get a standing no hands rest on creep show, but not on count floyd show. that's not to say there aren't no hands rests on count floyd show....

regardless of the differences, both climbs are a blast.

btw, one other reason count floyd show might be considered harder is that unlike creep show it doesn't have fixed draws. Nov 23, 2009

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.11b

Some points in question for sure, but Creep show didn't have fixed draws in the early 90's when we were all debating which was actually harder...
I think it had more to do with endurance Vs a single techinical move. Porter didn't probably notice the endurance factor, as it didn't show up on his Radar. Nov 23, 2009

saxfiend
Decatur, GA

There's no fixed draws on either Creep Show or Count Floyd. My partner onsighted Creep Show for his warmup climb on our last day (inspiring!), and he hung his own draws. May 17, 2010

Steve Bachmeier

I thought it felt easier than the 10d to the left, but I wouldn't necessarily say it's grade should be lowered. It's just less thuggy. The no hands rest saved my ass before the slopey topout on a wicked humid day! Jun 27, 2016

Ben Mackall
Bozeman, MT

5.11b

I found the new bolting on this to be super awkward, forcing extra moves off of the arete for the last couple bolts up top just to clip. May 1, 2018

Drew Jarrell

For me this climb was a journey and a battle. After giving it a shot every time I was at Phantasia for the last year I have finally sent and it was really good fun. I remember my first impressions of the route not being good due to the 'toothy' rock, but I have since changed my mind. Creep show is definitely easier (at least for me) as I onsighted that at night. I think a big part of this climb is the slight runout at the crux, requiring a pretty big move to earn the clip, in fact I recovered a couple of bail biners my send go from the bolt below the crux. Jun 9, 2024