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Traitor Horn
5.8,
Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches,
Avg: 3.4 from 439
votes
FA: Jim Smith, Auther Johnson and M. Holton August 1938
California
> Tahquitz & Suic…
> Tahquitz Rock
> (g) W Face
> W Face - Right Side
Description
Traitor Horn is an area classic, and has a great exposed crux when you pull on to the 'True Horn'!
P1 & 2 - Climb the first 2 pitches of Jensen's Jaunt (5.6) until you can head right just below the headwall to a protruding horn of rock. This is the 'Traitor Horn'. Traverse up and right to a small niche and belay. Try to protect this traverse well for your second, as the traversing moves can be delicate.
P3 - Climb up and over to the right. There will be 2 pitons just before the move onto the 'True Horn' (crux). The crack directly above with the pitons is a different route, and instead move to the right onto the horn. Then up, up, and over to a good belay spot with a tree growing out of a crack. If your second is not strong or is scared to move to the horn, make sure the rope is in the crack and not out away from it. I know this sounds wrong, but if your 2nd falls they will be hanging in air and will be hard to get them back onto the rock.
P4 is long up a low angle slab to the top.
You can also start the climb with Coffin Nail (5.8) or On the Road (5.10c). Also El Camino Real (5.10a) is another do way to go.
Protection
Thin to 2.5 inches
[Hide Photo] Chris Owen posing on the Traitor Horn (c) Mark Goss 1989
[Hide Photo] Met this little guy at the top of the route. his party took a different route, but he was super chill & happy to be out & about.
[Hide Photo] Traitor Horn; the true horn seen in the background.
[Hide Photo] Tony Tennessee on the True Horn at the crux. (c) Chris Owen 1989.
Big Bear Lake
Boulder, CO
My partner was too scared to traverse onto the horn, so she climbed straight up the crack in the back of the alcove. Harder, but a lot more secure! Mar 12, 2006
Scottsdale, AZ
Colorado Springs, CO
PG, Utah
work.
Make sure the rope runs on the horn side of the crack and can't slide back into it. Belaying shortly after the horn is a good idea.
If it runs in the crack or to climbers left of it a fall by the second will result in either a slam into the corner or a big air swing, lowering, reclimbing and much whining.
Yeah, it's a one move wonder, but premier among them. Do the Coffin Nail approach for full value. Sep 27, 2008
san diego, ca
Sacramento
ventura, ca
Oceanside CA
San Diego, CA
Golden, CO
San Diego, Ca
We belayed ABOVE the short easy chimney for Coffin Nail and easily made the niche belay past the false horn with a 60m rope. Drag was not bad with good management at the angles: into CN dihedral, over CN roof, Traverse under horn.
I thought the moves through the niche and establishing on the lower part of the horn were stiffer than they appeared, but the the moves off the horn were no sweat. The exposure was great!
If you've got the cojones to solo P1 of Coffin Nail and the short, easy chimney before the CN crack, you can do the whole linkup in two pitches, really, and "get r done" fast! May 25, 2015
SLC
Moral of the story, if this is your first time here, allow plenty of time to find and descend the friction route Jun 23, 2015
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Boston, MA
The beginning of Jensen's is really a scramble, so we did the whole thing as 3 roped pitches. Apr 4, 2016
Orange, CA
I think we could have done it in two pitches with a 70M if I set up a belay between the horns. Jul 6, 2016
Riverside, Ca
Solo/scramble most of the 1st pitch of Jensen's jaunt. Belay when it starts to get pretty vertical. I set up 1st pitch anchors immediately left of the false horn. Guide book states to climb below the false horn in between the flakes, which my partner did. It seemed like a reachy move and a bad swing potential for follower. I ended up climbing over the horn, which seemed a lot easier to prevent the swing. Partner built a belay 15 ft above the crux horn. Since the rope was in that crack, I didn't feel comfortable hopping on the horn and just climbed the crack. Felt like 10a there. From there you can reach the top. Apr 20, 2017
San Diego, CA
I found both routes to be pretty gosh darn exciting but have to say the True Horn really takes it to the next level. I think I got my first "flash pump" pulling the horn due to the extreme exhilaration and neglected to put a little cam in that crack that splits the horn. So I looked down at my last piece (a double sling on one of the pitons) and then I truly almost pooped my pants. Needless to say I took about 10 minutes to raise the requisite gumption before moving off the horn!!! Aug 1, 2018
Los Angeles, CA
Orange, CA
The coffin nail approach is much recommended! Sep 11, 2019
Costa Mesa, CA
Fullerton
Encinitas, CA
Los Angeles, CA