[Hide Comment] turd Jun 19, 2006

[Hide Comment] Not quite a turd to me, but certainly inescapably awkward. Jun 25, 2010

[Hide Comment] not a turd at all….The bulge is pumpy and sequency, after that a little thin and tricky. The last couple of moves are a bit dirty, but still, i would almost consider this a classic; plus the afternoon breeze on the shipwreck wall is freaking magic. Sep 17, 2010

[Hide Comment] Awkward. Not much fun.

Chad Dec 23, 2013

[Hide Comment] I agree, it's uneasily awkward between the second and third bolts. Still a few fun moves...at least I liked it. Mar 23, 2014

[Hide Comment] I found this to be excellent for the grade, in terms of rock quality and thoughtful movement. It's definitely not the average Smith 5.10 of slabby knob climbing. Feb 7, 2016

[Hide Comment] Fun route - easiest on this part of the wall. Give it a try! May 30, 2016

[Hide Comment] Not a turd, not a classic. Requires some thought & not your typical Smith route (as mentioned earlier). 10b (& fun) when you do it right; 10c if you do it the hard way. Jun 15, 2016

[Hide Comment] This is a great route and has 3 stars in the Watts guidebook. The style is different than a lot of the typical Smith knob pulling, with some interesting balance moves and a tricky bugle. The top section is easier but not a total gimme. Nice rock, cool moves, good length for a warm up. Enjoy! Nov 14, 2016

[Hide Comment] Interesting route! It definitely feels awkward until you find the beta, with multiple sections where it's easy to mess up the sequence and find yourself at a bit of a dead end, but once you unlock the sequences on this it flows nicely. Compared to More Sandy than Kevin, the crux is a bit easier, but the route is a bit more sustained. I'd call it one letter grade easier than whatever you call that climb. Nov 21, 2017

[Hide Comment] Rock quality is fine until you climb above the bulge where it begins to flex under hand. Most of the flakes and edges above are crumbly, dirty, and omg pull down not out or you're gonna go flying with rock in hand. Pulling the bulge was extremely awkward but could be fun if you can find a sequence...upper third renders the climb not worth it in my opinion due to the loose rock.. maybe it's gotten worse. Shade is great over here but there's so many supremely higher quality 5.10s at Smith. 10-13-2020 Oct 13, 2020

[Hide Comment] Awkward is NOT the word for this route. It is merely a bit unusual for Smith Rock. The crux is more thoughtful; there is a fun body problem. The moves are not hard, once figured out. It seems that many other commenters don't like thinking while climbing 5.10; it is true that Smith rarely makes one think till harder routes.
The rock above the bulge is not as good, but you'd have to pull out, and MUCH harder than necessary to pull anything off.
Fun route and worth doing for itself, and especially if you aspire to climb beyond Smith. Nov 5, 2020