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Ancient Light

5.10c, Trad, Sport, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 25 votes
FA: Richard Rossiter, Bonnie Von Grebe, Christine Damiano, 2001. P2 Richard Rossiter and Joan Johns, 2005
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Avalon > Third Tier > Crack Land
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk are closed for raptor nesting DetailsDrop down

Description

This route begins on the far left side of the summit tier of Avalon. From the Wall of the Dead, follow a trail right and up to Avalon's summit tier. Traverse left heading downstream. Pass a short wall with several cracks (Wall of the Goddess) and continue into the woods on a trail right next to the rock.The route starts at a narrow spot on the trail, right next to a curvy 10-foot-high dead tree.

P1. Climb up a somewhat grungy face (moss, lichen), then make an exciting traverse left at a little roof onto an arete (crux). Continue up the arete, past a 2-bolt anchor on a pedestal, to a 2-bolt anchor on a big grassy ledge. (10a, 9 bolts, 80').

The climbing on the upper half of the pitch is quite good.

P2. Work up and right past 2 bolts and pull right around the Penis Envy Pillar. Climb the right side of the pillar to a roof. Lieback through the roof, then climb straight up to a 2-bolt ring anchor on a nice ledge (10c, 5 bolts & gear to 3", 80').

Protection

P1: 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor at 70'.

If you're going to do the second pitch, continue past the first anchor (on a pedestal just below the grassy ledge) up to the grassy ledge and an anchor on the wall above it. This makes the pitch 80' long with 9 clips instead of 8.

P2: 5 bolts and gear up to 3".

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Routes on the summit tower of Avalon.  Approach via the first pitch of Ancient Light, or by a 4th-class scramble from the left.<br>
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The second pitch of Ancient Light requires gear up to 3" in addition to the bolts.
[Hide Photo] Routes on the summit tower of Avalon. Approach via the first pitch of Ancient Light, or by a 4th-class scramble from the left. The second pitch of Ancient Light requires gear up to 3" in additi…
This is an updated photo of Crack Land, part of Avalon, showing the new route WAR HORSE.
[Hide Photo] This is an updated photo of Crack Land, part of Avalon, showing the new route WAR HORSE.
This is an updated photo of Crack Land, part of Avalon, showing the new route WAR HORSE.
[Hide Photo] This is an updated photo of Crack Land, part of Avalon, showing the new route WAR HORSE.
Mico Alejandro gliding up the pristine face of Ancient Light.
[Hide Photo] Mico Alejandro gliding up the pristine face of Ancient Light.
Ancient Light, pitch 2.  Climb the face past two bolts.  Go up the left side of the pillar a short distance and step around to its right side.  Climb to the top of the pillar, clip the third bolt, and layback over the roof.  Continue up the steep face past two more bolts to the top.  The hardest moves are at the last two bolts.<br>
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I placed 5 cams ranging from a yellow Alien to a #3 Camalot.
[Hide Photo] Ancient Light, pitch 2. Climb the face past two bolts. Go up the left side of the pillar a short distance and step around to its right side. Climb to the top of the pillar, clip the third bolt,…
Nickie Kelly on the airy arete on p1 of Ancient Light.
[Hide Photo] Nickie Kelly on the airy arete on p1 of Ancient Light.
Ancient Light, pitch 1.  The lower part of the route is a little dirty, but the upper part is clean, steep, and airy.
[Hide Photo] Ancient Light, pitch 1. The lower part of the route is a little dirty, but the upper part is clean, steep, and airy.
Sheri Kessler pulling around the Penis Envy Pillar.
[Hide Photo] Sheri Kessler pulling around the Penis Envy Pillar.
John Engelland on the crux headwall.
[Hide Photo] John Engelland on the crux headwall.
Nickie Kelly at the horizontal crack on the steep upper face.  The hardest moves are above her at the last two bolts.
[Hide Photo] Nickie Kelly at the horizontal crack on the steep upper face. The hardest moves are above her at the last two bolts.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] The second pitch is interesting and varied. Climbing around the pillar and up to its top is quite different from the typical Avalon face climb. Laybacking the roof is straightforward, once you get in the proper position. The upper face was steep and sustained, with a 10b move at the 4th bolt and a 10d move at the fifth bolt. You can climb straight up past the fifth bolt with a long reach to a good pocket, or go left to a flared hand crack.

I placed a #.75 Camalot in the left side of the pillar after the second bolt, a #.5 Camalot and a #3 Camalot after the third bolt, and a yellow Alien after the fifth bolt. Sep 3, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] On the first pitch, the crux traverse left to the arete may be harder than 10a for shorter climbers. At 6'1", I was able to reach some good holds to pull myself across, but my shorter partner had a lot of trouble here. Rossiter's 10c rating may be more accurate for shorter climbers.

If you're going to do the second pitch, continue past the first anchor (on a pedestal just below the grassy ledge) up to the grassy ledge and an anchor on the wall above it. This makes the pitch 80' long with 9 clips instead of 8. Sep 3, 2005
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Dirty down low and still plenty of moss on the route. 2nd half is good when you move left to the arete. This was a good link into Ancient Fright to Resurrection to summit Avalon. If you do this, go to the top anchor. Aug 19, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] With a few longer slings, doing it as one long pitch is the way to go... you'll want to skip some bolts in easy territory & both inetmediate anchors to keep the drag down, but it's not hard where this is beneficial. Jun 19, 2008
Jeff Chrisler
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] This is a highly underrated climb and needs to get some more traffic on it! Make the venture up and out of the usual Avalon crowds to find this hidden gem. The 1st pitch is probably far easier than 10c, but perhaps the necessity to avoid wet moss and vegetation along with a slightly awkward but very cool, airy traverse makes it a 10. Awesomely fun, and well done finding this line to the original bolters! May 27, 2012
Guy Kenny Jr
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Only climbed the first pitch but liked it. It is rated 10c in D'Antonio's book but felt more like 10a. Nice line that needs some cleaning. Sep 16, 2012