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Rhodian Shores

5.10b, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 316 votes
FA: Steve Muller, Dianne Barrow, and Mark Rolofson, 1997?
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Bihedral Area > Bihedral (Upper Tier)
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, Security Risk reopened. Eagle Rock opened 5/19/25. DetailsDrop down

Description

Rossiter calls this a 9, and I believe Rolofson a 10. It felt harder than 9. This demands good slab technique and is bolted a bit for the taller person, even though the bolts are closely spaced. That said, the route begins 15 feet left of the left-facing dihedral that is P1 of the Bihedral route and ascends a low-angle slab which steepens near the top. Two tricky sequences get the blood flowing at the third and fifth bolts. This is a great route.

Protection

[8] well-spaced bolts to a two-bolt Fixe anchor with lowering hooks that is shared with Hold The Line.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Don't think about it, just do it (Tommy Wiseau).
[Hide Photo] Don't think about it, just do it (Tommy Wiseau).
Grant on a toprope lap of Rhodian Shores, good fun! The bolt line falls just left of the rope.
[Hide Photo] Grant on a toprope lap of Rhodian Shores, good fun! The bolt line falls just left of the rope.
James leading Rhodian Shores (Dave in the shadow, leading the Bihedral).
[Hide Photo] James leading Rhodian Shores (Dave in the shadow, leading the Bihedral).
Approach to routes on the upper tier of the Bihedral.<br>
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Follow the approach trail up the hill until it cuts right toward the rock at a flat area. Spot a cairn by a big pine tree close to the rock. Head right, past the tree and around a rock rib.  Climb the rock, mostly easy with a short 3rd-class section, up to the upper tier.
[Hide Photo] Approach to routes on the upper tier of the Bihedral. Follow the approach trail up the hill until it cuts right toward the rock at a flat area. Spot a cairn by a big pine tree close to the rock.…
The "detached death block" from the comments getting lowered off. It probably wouldn't have made the road, but it was not worth the risk. Thanks, Laura, for the photo.
[Hide Photo] The "detached death block" from the comments getting lowered off. It probably wouldn't have made the road, but it was not worth the risk. Thanks, Laura, for the photo.
Mmmm slabby.
[Hide Photo] Mmmm slabby.
Scotty boy going horizontal reaching for the 4th bolt.
[Hide Photo] Scotty boy going horizontal reaching for the 4th bolt.
Patrick struggling through slabby moves on Rhodian Shores. The route directly follows the bolts.
[Hide Photo] Patrick struggling through slabby moves on Rhodian Shores. The route directly follows the bolts.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I thought it was a great route - at least, much better than Bihedral to the right of it, which seemed like a sandbag on both pitches with poor gear on the second pitch. It felt maybe a bit harder than 9 on a couple of moves, but the rating is probably accurate for a slab. Jan 1, 2001
George Bell
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] I also thought this route 5.10- in one section (3rd bolt or so?). I enjoyed the route as well as the Bihedral, I would not say the Bihedral is much worse. It is just trad climbing vs. sport. Aug 2, 2001
[Hide Comment] This was a great route, albeit harder than the 5.9 rating it was given by Rossiter. I'd agree with 10a. Requires very good footwork and slab climbing techniques. One of the better sport routes I've done in the canyon. Feb 1, 2002
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
[Hide Comment] I'd say 10a around the third bolt. I stepped right thinking the vertical seams might provide some solace but made for a tricky return back left. The rest felt 5.9. A great climb! May 13, 2002
[Hide Comment] Good line on great rock. I agree on the 10a rating. We linked this with the 2nd pitch of the Bihedral route--very nice. A few things: I would suggest climbing past the anchors (about another 15-20ft) to the base of the the 2nd pitch to set your belay--much more comfortable and easier to manage your rope. Second thing-leave the nuts and Aliens on the ground; the second pitch is all about .75"-4" cams. If you don't have a 3.5" or a 4" cam, you're in for a dicey runout. Last thing-there are good slings on a tree at the top that you can rap off. Really fun combination--it might just have been good timing, but despite the crowds on the Riviera below, nobody was up there. Jul 1, 2002
[Hide Comment] This route is certainly 5.10. 10b sounds about right; a good comparable is Le Nouveau Riche, next door at the Riviera. Aug 6, 2002
[Hide Comment] I would rate this a 10a as well. 3rd and 4th bolts are the crux. Great slab climb! May 13, 2003
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] If it matters, the crux seemed to be between bolt 2&3 per 5 folks with whom I've climbed this. High step L or R foot works. Maybe L foot is better? May 22, 2003
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
[Hide Comment] Definitely the crux is the 4th clip, involving a thin finger tip seam about eye level and a sequence of delicate foot placements out left, working up and left to a nice ledge and much better stances. Have the draw in your mouth ready to clip. Two very small openings in the seam favor skinny finger tips. Felt (10) to me. The upper half is also interesting with an undercling and a flake with more positive holds. Fun stuff. 3 Stars. Jun 15, 2003
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The crux for me was getting up to and past the third bolt. I also ended up stepping a bit up and to the right to make the third clip, but, as mentioned above, doing so makes for a difficult traverse back. Very solid and continuous climbing. I remember only eight bolts to the anchors. Aug 13, 2003
brent pohlmann
San Francisco, CA
 
[Hide Comment] This was a great route with moves all the way to the top! Does anyone know a way to get dogs up to the Bihedral area without making your dog do a "5.12-R-dog-move"? Aspen had a harder time climbing up there then we did! Oct 13, 2005
pfwein Weinberg
Boulder, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I believe Rossiter's rating was taken from feedback from my partner and me. Our 5.9 rating was relative to traditional 5.9 climbs in BC; we weren't familiar with the new rating system back then. Good alternative first pitch to the bihedral. I did Over the Hill (real 10b) a few weeks after this route--OTH felt MUCH harder. So 5.9 is probably accurate. May 8, 2006
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Foot-intensive, interesting climbing. Some of the bolts aren't in the best spots, but they'll get you where you want to go. Nov 20, 2007
Guy Kenny Jr
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Fun climb. Well protected. Somewhere between a 9 and a 10. It's a sport climb? Oct 2, 2011
Marty Combs
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] As far as the rating goes, if you wander left and right a lot it may go at 5.9. If you hug the bolt line, it's probably 5.10b. Oct 12, 2011
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] In regard to the Rossiter 9 rating, perhaps a run on his 2nd pitch of Climb of the Ancient Mariner, 5.9, on the Bookend or P5 of Birds of Fire, 5.9, might serve as a good grounding for slabbier granite (not my forte). Apr 28, 2015
Caleb Gruber
Denver, CO
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Straight slab climbing with thin holds from bolt 1 to 6, my feet were throbbing! Staying directly under the bolt line is definitely 5.10b or c even. Smear those toes, trust those edges! Feb 18, 2018
Weston Hamilton
Boulder
[Hide Comment] Every time I climb a new route I get on here to discover someone thinks it’s a 5.9. Rhodian Shores is actually so 5.4 slab, just solo it. Jokes aside, sure you can make it up a route by going way left and right of the bolts but this is solid at 10 something if you go straight up the bolt line and is three stars if you do that, so do that. Great for a winter climb also. Jan 11, 2019
Mark Rolofson
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Amazing how difficult it is for so many educated, literate people (who post routes on MP) to correctly count the number of bolts, even when some guidebooks have it correct (not Bob D'Antonio's great book of mistakes). There are 8 bolts / 2 Fixe rings.

This was the first sport route on the wall. Many thanks to Steve Muller (Dianne's brother) for envisioning the line up this clean slab & inviting me to bring my drill & bolts up to help establish this route. The three of us enjoyed climbing on the Bihedral back when very few people did. Today it was totally mobbed with big groups. Not enough developed rock on the Front Range to accommodate the weekend crowds. Best to climb at this crag during the week.

One of the Best 5.10 slabs in the canyon. The hardest moves begin at the 2nd bolt & continue past the 3rd bolt. Depending where you climb (left or right of the bolt), another hard section can be encountered at the 5th bolt. First ascent was made in July 1996. Apr 14, 2019
Nani Ciafone
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] Perhaps it was an off day for my, but I thought this route was tricky - I fell a couple times bolt 2-3 (I think). Thought this part was pretty blank - had an easier time with 11 Clipboard slab routes. Sep 23, 2020
Alan L
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Did this route yesterday. Following the bolt line the crux is definitely at the 3rd bolt. Very small edges and delicate smearing. Those few moves feel every bit 10b/c. Ive been on 11a's that have felt easier. Jun 19, 2022
Alan L
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Was up there yesterday, and the block that Riley noted is still sitting up there. It is very much detached and would come off immediately if someone pulled on it. If it did get tossed, it would probably end up in the road, which could be really bad.

If you are planning on TR'ing this route, your rope will run right next to the block, and that made my partner and I a little spooked if something were to happen and it came down. There is a two bolt Fixe anchor directly above the climb (WITHOUT HOOKS), but we opted to run it through the anchor of Hold the Line to keep the rope out of the way at the top. Be careful! May 26, 2023
[Hide Comment] Death block at the last bolt was removed June 12, 2023. Jun 13, 2023
Charlie Kirkwood
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Did this route over the weekend. REALLY fun, but this def. calls for a cool head at the crux. Good slab technique and the ability to remember that it's slab... friction is fun... will get you through it. :) I think 10a/b is a good call for this one. Oct 21, 2024