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Black is Beautiful

5.11a, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 284 votes
FA: Mark Milligan and Bob D'Antonio, 1986
Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Entrance…

Description

This route is on a large orange wall just off the trail about 100 feet past the Colors of Emotion wall. The route goes up a sort of shallow gully right next to a large black streak. A fairly hard start leads to easier but really fun climbing up the gully and across the black streak to anchors.

Protection

7 closely spaced bolts to anchors. The guide book says 2 bolts to no anchors, but it must have been rebolted.

Name change history

The name change from Whipping Post to Black is Beautiful was done by Bob D.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The view of Black is Beautiful from the other side of the canyon is fantastic, March 2017.
[Hide Photo] The view of Black is Beautiful from the other side of the canyon is fantastic, March 2017.
Kate sending Whipping Post.
[Hide Photo] Kate sending Whipping Post.
Matt LaChapelle squeezes in a run up Whipping Post at the end of the day.
[Hide Photo] Matt LaChapelle squeezes in a run up Whipping Post at the end of the day.
Whipping Post, 05/22/2005.
[Hide Photo] Whipping Post, 05/22/2005.
Christa Cline approaches the transition across the black streak.
[Hide Photo] Christa Cline approaches the transition across the black streak.
Marie cruising Black is Beautiful.
[Hide Photo] Marie cruising Black is Beautiful.
Black is Beautiful
[Hide Photo] Black is Beautiful
Dz Nutz In the middle.
[Hide Photo] Dz Nutz In the middle.
At the top getting ready to rappel.
[Hide Photo] At the top getting ready to rappel.
Mike Amato scopes out the final moves to the anchor.
[Hide Photo] Mike Amato scopes out the final moves to the anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I'm amazed this route gets no stars in the book. It is probably the best 11a in the canyon. May 16, 2005
Michael Amato
 
[Hide Comment] Very thin moves to first bolt lead to steep and fun climbing above. May 24, 2005
Michael Amato
 
[Hide Comment] Bob, I think he added 5 bolts as there are 7 bolts there now. Too bad, climbing this with only two bolts would be a scary lead (!), but now there is almost z-clip potential where the climbing is fairly moderate. May 26, 2005
Dillon Sprague
Loveland, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The beginning moves to the first bolt are difficult for the short- very fun climb. Jun 10, 2007
Kirsten KDog
Edgewater, CO
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] This is now one of my favorite climbs in Penitente, although the 12 on the left and the 11c on the right of this are close behind! Excellent stone, flowy movement & great positioning. Loved it. Jun 28, 2010
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Such an amazing climb. The climbing on Whipping Post is just awesome. The start was the hardest part for me. Sep 5, 2011
William Mondragon
 
[Hide Comment] So much fun, I can attest the holds only get better after the start. Feb 10, 2012
kboofis
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] If you're short, the start may feel a bit harder. May 7, 2014