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Gunga Din

5.11a, Sport,  Avg: 2.6 from 19 votes
FA: Bob Cowan & Mark Ilgner, ~1984 or 1985?
Wyoming > Laramie Area > Vedauwoo > Fall Wall
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Description

Gunga Din takes the 3-bolt line adjacent to and to the right of 5.11 Crack. Thin, technical, near-vertical slab moves will get you through the crux. Try to pinch the occasional rugosity or imperfection in the clean granite if it makes you feel better, but your hands are pretty much worthless on this one except for clipping the bolts. The climbing eases back to about 5.8 after the third bolt - move up and slightly left to the same anchor as for 5.11 Crack. While the difficult moves are well-protected, the 5.8 runout after the third bolt is a bit sporty.

Protection

QDs (3 bolts), plus something for the two-bolt anchor. This can be toproped by climbing one of the easier adjacent climbs such as 5.11 Crack or E.O. Lieback.

Per Michael Friedrichs: this was established ground up by Bob Cowan. The first bolt was added later.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This is a worthy route in every way. I really enjoy this route though I am primarily a crack climber. There are anchor chains at the top, no need to share with 5.11 crack Oct 11, 2002
[Hide Comment] The hands are actually pretty good for a "Sport Slab" ; definatly on the easy side of 5.11but an excellent route that is rarely climbed in a usually crowded area ! Oct 12, 2002
Rodger Raubach
Billings, MT
[Hide Comment] My recollection is the first ascent was Paul Piana ~1984 or 1985.
I was wrong; see Paul's comment below. Oct 10, 2011
Mark Rolofson
  5.11b/c
[Hide Comment] It has been about 35 years since I climbed this route. I climbed it in Summer 1983, shortly after it was established. I did repeat it a few times in the 1980s. I thought is was .11b/c & a bit harder than Spider God at .11b. I am surprised to see it rated only 5.11a. Apr 27, 2020
Michael Friedrichs
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] First ascent by Bob Cowan. He added the first bolt later. Established ground up. Bold lead. Harder than .11a in my opinion. Apr 28, 2020
[Hide Comment] Bob Cowan & Mark Ilgner established this route. I enjoyed watching them establish the route. After they pulled their rope, they were kind enough to belay while I climbed their new route. Apr 25, 2022