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Adolescent Homosapien

5.7, Trad, 110 ft (33 m),  Avg: 3 from 459 votes
FA: Greg Lowe
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Breadloaves > Decadent Wall
Warning Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

Adolescent Homosapien climbs the obvious long hand and finger crack on the west side of Lower Breadloaf. Great continuous climbing leads to the crux just below the top of the climb. An extremely popular route on an extremely popular wall. Walk left a few feet and rap from anchor's near the top of Double Crack.

Protection

Pro to 3".

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jim Donini rapping off.
[Hide Photo] Jim Donini rapping off.
Upper Crack
[Hide Photo] Upper Crack
The awkward start to Adolescent Homosexual.
[Hide Photo] The awkward start to Adolescent Homosexual.
Chasing the sun on the last lap.
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Spot the Crocs
[Hide Photo] Chasing the sun on the last lap. Spot the Crocs
Dwight at the top, just beat the sun
[Hide Photo] Dwight at the top, just beat the sun
John well on his way to the finish
[Hide Photo] John well on his way to the finish
Me leading up the homo...such a fun climb, the head wall is a blast too bad its so short
[Hide Photo] Me leading up the homo...such a fun climb, the head wall is a blast too bad its so short
Ready for the crack leading to the top!
[Hide Photo] Ready for the crack leading to the top!
near the top
[Hide Photo] near the top
Maura Hahnenberger on Adolescent Homosapien.
[Hide Photo] Maura Hahnenberger on Adolescent Homosapien.
Climber on the right is on Adolescent Humanoid, on the left is Double Cracks
[Hide Photo] Climber on the right is on Adolescent Humanoid, on the left is Double Cracks

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bobby Hanson
Spokane Valley
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Great route. I highly recommend it, especially for those just getting into leading. The pro is mostly casual, and only one real crux (at the top). May 3, 2005
Jason Billings
Draper, UT
  5.7
[Hide Comment] This isn't any harder than 5.7, for sure., but I wouldn't recommend it to a new lead. Although you wouldn't fall far, you would have ledge fall at the crux. Sep 27, 2005
[Hide Comment] Great climb and great gear, I don't remember any part of this climb that was poorly protected, including the upper portion. Aug 27, 2007
steven sadler
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] i did this on 07-17-10. i'm a new trad leader and its a great climb. takes pro well. there was a bat in the crack that made it a little hard to hand jam in that spot though. Jul 20, 2010
[Hide Comment] Great climb and great gear. Crux is up high and can be protected pretty well with camalot C3s or stoppers. A great first trad lead for those comfortable at the grade. Seemed easier than a lot of 5.7s in Little Cottonwood, UT. Jul 22, 2010
Blitzo
 
[Hide Comment] A fun route. The 5.7 rating is a bit generous. I'd say easy 5.6. Aug 23, 2010
Ryan Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Definitely a 5.7 in my opinion. The crux at the top is a bit tricky, but as other commenting peeps have mentioned, it protects well. Great climb though! Rapped off the bolts to the left with a 70m. Jul 23, 2012
Aaron Bugh
Bozeman, MT
 
[Hide Comment] If you climb the big offwidth/chimney to the left either with some big gear like the Trango Big Bros or on TR off your anchor for Adolescent it makes a really nice 5.8ish variation. It is a friendly and easy introduction to that style of climbing. Sep 4, 2012
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
 
[Hide Comment] One of the best moderate clean routes at the City. On par with Wheat Thin. Upper crux protects fine with small gear. Aug 1, 2013
S.Lee
 
[Hide Comment] Thought the pro was a little tough, though it was only my 6th or 7th trad lead. Good route though. 5.7 rating is fair. May 20, 2014
Shaun Coe
La Grande, Oregon
 
[Hide Comment] Great climb! so much fun to start out here first day if you are at city. I would recommend bringing a 70M rope just for the wrap because the walk off is safe, but painful. May 5, 2015
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Dave, why is adolescent 'homosapien' more "punk" than adolescent 'homosexual?' For that matter, why care about being 'punk?' What really matters for the shitty "guidebook" is relevant information - like what the anchor situation is. Sep 20, 2015
atfarley farley
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] depending on your hand size and 'style' i can see how one might either think the lower wide crack or the upper thin stuff could be the crux. I had a trickier time up top whereas my girlfriend blazed through the top but struggled in the wide hand crack (second quarter of the route.) ---hardest .7 that we climbed. Oct 18, 2015
[Hide Comment] Great climb - best for the grade that I've done in the city and good to learn on. Can be climbed using mostly passive gear - textbook nut placements, great to learn. Cruxes are well protected IMO. Easy solid anchor up top with medium to larger gear. We TR'd with a 60M with no problem. Rap anchors to the climbers left in a little gulley thing maybe 30 to the climbers left of where you'd set an anchor. Exposed scramble to reach them is not that bad, but I rapped on someone else's rope, so I don't know if a 60M would make it, but I think there's a walk off that's not too bad somewhere. Abundant face holds or jams. Feb 7, 2018
Nick Baker
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Rap Anchor to the left has two bad spinners that won't tighten. Suggest planning to walk off until they get some love. Gear anchor require for the. Fun route. Jul 21, 2019
Daniel Cavanaugh
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] Let's update the name of this climb to the AKA of Adolescent Homosapien. No need to keep such a derogatory name in the list of classic climbs Jul 1, 2020
Mike Engle
Pocatello, ID
 
[Hide Comment] Dave, some admins have either contacted the FA or taken initiative to change the route names of potentially offensive routes they may have originally posted to MP. Meanwhile, the vast majority of routes with questionable names are being cataloged and will be reviewed and submitted for changes. The exact method and timing is in progress. Here is the official response from MP on this topic:

We are still working on forming a coalition of groups to work on this issue together. We believe the end result will be significantly stronger if we're together, but the issue is obviously thorny and we're still a few weeks away from making any announcements.

The "Flag this Name" functionality is still available and we have thousands of submitted names. Many of them are people messing around with us. Just because a name has been flagged, that doesn't mean anything other than some user pushed a button. It does not mean anything will ever be done with that flag. They will be easy to clean up later.

Having this set of flagged names is going to be very helpful in creating a set of guidelines that eventually will be used to determine what constitutes a discriminatory name. Coming up with those guidelines is the crux of this issue, it will take a long time, and forming the group that decides that is going to be quite a process in itself.

Once we have guidelines, we will figure out how to apply them on MP. It will almost certainly mean working with FAs (when available) to find out if they're open to changing the name themselves. It will almost certainly NOT include MP or MP admins renaming routes without consulting FAs (or some kind of LCO if the FA is unreachable). I believe this point is very important to some folks.

In some (or many) cases, that will leave MP with the decision of what to do with a name that the FA wishes to keep and MP does not want to display. We are most likely to show "[Redacted]" as the name in those cases, but this is NOT a final decision.

We already tracking name changes to any route that is flagged, and we're storing the original name. It's possible we could display the old name in some kind of historical note, but that's definitely still up for debate. But we do have the data if we want to show it.

At this point in time, we can continue to flag names and change names in accordance with the wishes of the FA. Please don't do more than that.

[Edit: about 120 names have already been changed in accordance with FA wishes. Some were pretty terrible.] Aug 13, 2020
Brandon Marshal
Victor, ID
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Wonderful - ultra classic - great for the new 5.7 city crack leader.

Hand (or bigger) sized gear for top belay. Chains to the north, suitable for belay in an emergency with directional placements on top crack. Rappel with 80M rope definitely reaches, 70M would likely reach. Tie your knots!

One big piece (#4 ish) could be nice for the lower climbing. Crack is wide - but easy to climb above if you don't have large gear. Cheers! Nov 29, 2021