PRINT: Rock Climb Sunflower, Red Rocks

Sunflower

5.9 R, Trad, 850 ft (258 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,

Avg: 2.9 from 62 votes
FA: Jon Martinet & Randal Grandstaff
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (12) Oak Creek… > Solar Slab - Upper Tier

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

Although everyone comes to this wall for Solar Slab, there are other worthwhile routes nearby. One is the beautiful, but serious Sunflower. This line starts on the low-angle buttress immediately to the right of the top of the approach gully. It then follows a crack that eventually disappears while the route continues up a long stretch of blank, sweeping slab. It again gains a crack system that leads to the 2nd terrace high above.

When originally climbed, the fourth pitch had only two protection bolts. Several more have since been added, making the route considerably tamer, but still somewhat runout.

Pitch 1: Just to the right of the Solar Slab approach gully, climb up a very easy low-angle slab.

Pitch 2: Continue up to a good ledge beneath a small, right-facing corner. There is a bolt anchor for this belay.

Pitch 3: Climb straight up the right-facing corner above. Belay from 2 bolts. 5.8+, 140'

Pitch 4: Head straight up off belay through delicate moves, following the bolt line. When the bolts run out, strike out through the last of the slab for the crack above. Belay when possible. 5.9, 150'

Pitch 5: Continue up the crack until another belay stance appears. 5.7, 100'

Pitch 6: An easy pitch leads to the base of the last pitches of Solar Slab. 5.5, 45'

Descent: Descend as per Solar Slab- either rappel that route or continue to the summit of Solar Slab and descend into the Painted Bowl.

Protection

Standard rack to about 3", a 4" cam may be nice to have, but not necessary.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Routes on the Solar Slab

Sunflower pitch 5

Following pitch 3.

Sunflower pitch 3

Sunflower pitch 4.

Sunflower pitch 3 climbs the corner system.

Following pitch 1.

rap into painted bowl (other option is to rap Solar Slab and rap/downclimb Solar Slab Gully)

last pitch on sunflower (route goes left before the arch and diagonals up and left to meet up with Solar Slab)

P2 per Handren slanting 5.9 crack on white sandstone; note: Handren's beta shows this route as sharing the first 2 pitches with Heliotrope, which is different from Larry's topo

P1 (per Handren, staring on Upper Solar Slab)

Sunflower p4.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Doug Hemken
Delta, CO

5.9

Very nice route, comparable in quality to Sundog.

The belay at the end of pitch 2 has a single new bolt, and currently there is a fixed nut as well. There appear to be some alternate starts that will get you this far, including the original start to Solar Slab (described here), but the most fun is to run up p1 of the modern Solar Slab, then continue up and right in the inviting crack (5.8).

Pitch 3 continues up a flake system, then launches up a slabby crack system. It would be nice if the pitch ended in the large dish, but unfortunately the FA party continued up and left another 30 feet. The belay bolts (beefed up with the addition of a new bolt) are hidden at first, but there is a protection bolt you pass on the way, so route finding is no issue.

There is lots of friable rock in this final section of pitch 3 and for the first part of pitch 4. It's not too much trouble for the leader to sort it all out, but there are some chunks that are potentially hazardous to your belayer or to people on the Sunporch ledge system at the base of Solar Slab. The chunk of rock you stand on while belaying at the top of pitch 3 is of particular concern - we could feel it move whenever we shifted our weight. Someone really ought to move this belay station down and right to the big dish - it would be more comfortable, safer for the belayer, and safer for people down on the Sunporch.

The additional bolts on pitch 4 make this a very comfortable lead. Take time to marvel at how the FA party ran it out on the only loose rock on the route!

Once you hit the crack system on the second half of pitch 4, its a romp. Belay anywhere convenient. With double ropes, you can retreat from as high as the top of pitch 3 and only leave slings and rap rings.

Apr 1, 2005

Meredith DB
Boulder, CO

5.9

I thought this route was incredibly fun. I'm surprised that it doesn't see a lot more traffic, because it's great. We did this climb after starting with Beulah's Book and loved the linkup of the two routes.

I also didn't find it to be particularly runout.

There is some rock that is not well attached, as mentioned by Doug Hemken above. In addition, when we climbed this route on 11/23/2006 we found that the bolt that protects the crux move is partially pulled out of the rock. If you are uncomfortable with 9 slab moves, you might find this unnerving. Otherwise, go for it and have fun. Apr 26, 2007

nealg

did the route last week and found it to be super fun.

there are 5 bolts on P4 - bolts 2 and 4 are ancient - but this slab section is truly no harder the 5.9 and still well protected by the other 3 bolts by Yosemite / Tuolumne standards.

the 2nd pitch of fingers / hands is excellent.

this is a great route up Solar Slab Apr 26, 2010

Doug Foust
Oroville, WA

The flakes you stand on at the top of p3 are sketchy! I shifted my weight and heard it creek 3 feet away. Jan 16, 2011

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.9

Very good route. No bad pitches. In fact, all pitches were GOOD. I didn't find any of it to be loose. Nov 24, 2017

Bolter Bot

The original bolts on this route have been upgraded with ASCA stainless. The 3rd belay has been moved down to better rock, and a better stance. Nov 25, 2018

Sean Cooney

5.9

This route could easily be renamed Fun-flower: enjoyable climbing from start to finish and there are no run-outs at all with the additional bolts. Also, I found P2 fingers and hands crack to be the hardest (and the most fun), since it had several moves with insecure feet on the sandy white rock. The 8+ and 9 pitches above seemed cruiser by comparison. Feb 14, 2020

Andy Cao
Las Vegas, NV

Climbed this today in low 50's weather and thought the temps were just right with the sun on your back. The route itself is deserving of all 4 stars - quality rock, diversity of style (crack crux & slab crux), largely good gear placement, and a convenient rap descent shared with Solar Slab. Completely agree with Sean Cooney on the cruxes and thank you ASCA for those awesome bolts on pitch 4 and the updated 3rd belay stance. The top of pitch 5 wanders a bit but my advice is to head farther left than you think - the Solar Slab rap rings are slightly hidden inside a low angled crack.

We climbed Beulah's Book and linked with this and thought it was a great day out for those comfortable on 5.9. Dec 15, 2020

fossana
leeds, ut

As noted in the comments one of the anchors was moved during the replacement. If following Handren, on pitch 3 you'll stop before the bolt. The hidden anchor is no longer there. Nov 19, 2021

Adam Fleming
AMGA Certified Rock Guide; SLC

5.9 PG13

Definitely not rated R anymore! Expect ~15' between high quality bolts. A slip on the sandy footholds has potential for mild injury, but only because it's a slab. You can sling an okay horn after the final bolt before you get into the crack on p4.

An excellent route with a variety of styles and some beautiful rock. Pairs nicely with Beulah's Book.

For those interested, here's how I pitched it out:
p1: bolts
p2: ledge with single bolt and RFC
p3: bolts
p4: Full 60m to varnished spot with stance (kinda a mini chimney)
p5: Full 60m. Move left at LFC turning into roof. Belay at alcove or move left onto the plates if you have a 70m
p6: short pitch through plates to top of SS. Jan 22, 2022

Tina McDowell
Louisville, CO

As others have noted, the Handren guide an description above is not correct.

P-1, Solar Slab or Heliotrope (recommended!) to the shared belay ledge.
P-2 Sweet 5.9 finger crack, lots of gear.
P-3 Head up corner with good gear. THERE IS NO BOLT OR HIDDEN BELAY, the new belay is lower and slightly hanging.
P-4 Be psyched for 5-9 slab, some bolts are 15 ft apart and slabby. Belay as high as you can in an alclove to set up for success in next pitch. Not R, but PG fo sho.
P-5, as mentioned, traverse left onto face about 20 ft below the huge roof. Extend your slings to prevent massive rope drag.
From there, work your way hard diagonal left as to hit Solar Slab anchors...this is a stretch with a 60m and very run out, though easy climbing. (I stayed too far right and didn't see the anchors till they were almost parallel, couldn't get there with rope drag) Mar 18, 2023