PRINT: Rock Climb A Good Day to Die, Southeast Utah

A Good Day to Die

5.9, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 2.6 from 120 votes
FA: Tom Gilje, Julie Gilje, 1995
Utah > Southeast Utah > Kane Springs Ca… > Ice Cream Parlor

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

A good warmup for Ice Cream Parlour Crack - Start 20 feet left of it, climb up a right-facing corner, then trend right past three bolts to the belay, or continue on a few more feet to a second anchor.

Protection

Single set of cams to #3.5 Camalot, a few draws for bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

It begins....

The crux for me, on toprope, was here, exiting the corner onto the slab. Photo by Kenny Parker.

Its a fun line! A few hand-jams and slight traverse.

Dave Stewart TR's 'A Good Day To Die (5.9)' to warm up for Ice Cream Parlor Crack. Photo taken by Tony Bubb from Ice Cream's Parlor Crack's anchors, 2004.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

B.J. Sbarra

I thought this route was fun, at least worth doing if in the area. And it's located 20 feet to the LEFT of Ice Cream Parlor Crack.

-B.J. Sbarra Oct 29, 2004

Matt Stirn

5.9+

Route was fun. Would do it again if in the area. Not a climb to go to the parlor for but a climb to do in the parlor. Feb 3, 2005

Anonymous Coward

Good challenging climb for intermediate climbers. Tests variety of skills. I have climbed for about a year and I did this climb after I was fairly tired and it gave me a good challenge. I'm sure experienced climbers will have no problem with it but still have fun.. Nov 11, 2005

Chris O'Connor
boulder, co

5.9

Great climb, brought the gf on this one and she took a nice fall exiting the cracks onto the first bolt and took a good swing. Apr 26, 2006

TuFF GonG
gunnison Colorado

5.9

Not 3 bolts. I only clipped two, no sign of a third. Maybe I just missed it?? Fun route though. Sep 1, 2007

Aaron Martinuzzi

from the top of this route, you can set a TR for Ice Cream Parlor Crack Apr 19, 2009

rds_avl
ridgway, colorado

climbed this yesterday....definitely only two bolts, no sign of third.
desert rock III list gear as only 1 #2tricam and 4 draws, that is definitely not correct...take cams too. Oct 24, 2009

TLob	[Hide Comment] Really fun climb! Nice variety with some jams, great stemming, a bit of liebacking, and fun face climbing. I just clipped the first anchor with a draw and continued to the anchor right on top of Ice Cream Parlor Crack for a perfect top rope on that stellar line. Mar 21, 2014

Trent Mahaffey

Sweet climb, committing traverse over to slab bolts. Dec 10, 2015