[Hide Comment] This route is rated 5.9 in the Stewart Green book, but 5.8 seems about right. Lots of rest, lots of options, short, gear every inch of the way. Great intro leading route for this area. Unfortunately, there aren't many near this easy. Nov 29, 2001

[Hide Comment] This is rated 5.7 in Sharp End's book. Oct 4, 2002

[Hide Comment] We looked for this route so a friend could do his first lead here, and after a lot of bewilderment, we realize that it very well may have fallen. The broken column collapsed! Maybe worth taking a look at, its kind of weird. Mar 13, 2009

[Hide Comment] This climb has not fallen down. Sep 7, 2011

[Hide Comment] This doesn't seem like a good beginner lead to me at all. No pro for the first 20-30 ft that you have to run it out before you find the crack. Aug 25, 2014

[Hide Comment] Definitely not a good beginner lead, no beginning pro with a big ledge off the back.. can you say sketchy? Nov 24, 2015

[Hide Comment] After 15+ years I Finley put anchors on this climb it's never had proper anchors... i'm currently removing all the blocks from the inside .. Oct 23, 2016

[Hide Comment] Super super fun!! Big thanks to Devin and crew for cleaning out the chimney. Totally awesome route!! Oct 7, 2020

[Hide Comment] I decided to take the chimney to escape the sun and was not a fan of the climb. There was still a lot of loose rock to negotiate, especially on top of the tower when clipping the chains. If you've made it to indian creek, you can find better climbs than this one. Apr 5, 2021

[Hide Comment] Why is everyone hating on this climb? It's a nice change! single rack will do, maybe double 0.4, and you probably can't be to big to fit through the squeeze. Nice one devin! May 22, 2022

[Hide Comment] I think the commenters complaining about no gear for the first 20-30 feet may be doing a variation. We reached the base of this climb by walking directly left from Twin Cracks into a cave formed by the leaning pillar. The spot was shown to us by the first ascensionist, who happened to be at the wall, so I believe this is the standard start. The climb begins with a finger crack and you can place gear immediately. There is a bit of loose rock and some run-out shenanigans higher up, so this route still might not make the best first lead, but a confident 5.8 leader should find the climbing fun and safe enough.

Gear-wise, I brought a double rack up to BD #2s. I placed both my 2s and was happy to have had them. Oct 9, 2022

[Hide Comment] First, please do not top-rope through the chains! Build an anchor and then rap the route. Thanx
This route is probably the easiest at the creek unless you carry a few extra pounds in the middle. I give it a 5.7 rating max. Where is the 5.8 move? Just curious. I use BD .4, .5 and 1 in that order. Nov 28, 2022

[Hide Comment] "Runout shenanigans" near the chains is a very apt description. Giggled my way up, the chimney squeeze is a riot. Super fun, and very much in DF style. Oct 6, 2023