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Anarchy Wall

International > N America > Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Potrero Chico > El Toro (The Front Side)

Description

This large, mostly untouched wall is between Zapatista and Land of the Free, and currently has two established routes. Both routes are accessed by climbing the same first four pitches (which are worth doing in their own right if you want a shorter day), then walking up through the trees to the back of the bowl.

Developer's note: if you're keen on putting up a new multipitch in Potrero, there's plenty of clean and solid-looking rock in between these two routes. And if you want to establish something top-down, pretty much the entire wall is accessible via tension traverse and ledge walking from one of these routes or the other. Just sayin'.

Getting There

From Sunnyvale, continue right along the trail, generally following the base of the wall. After crossing a small scree slope and reaching the top of a ridge, the trail heads steeply downhill for a bit. Just after it turns back uphill briefly, there is a small cairn marking the turn off to the base of Viva la Anarquía. Other routes are accessed from the top of that climb.

Alternatively one could also reach the Anarchy Wall by approaching the Nautilus Buttress and then continuing further southward on a freshly brushed trail that leads directly to Viva La Anarquia. This approach is probably about 5 to 10 minutes shorter if you enter the trail system just above El Cubil. 

Routes from Left to Right

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updated topos February 2025
[Hide Photo] updated topos February 2025

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Greg Troutman
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] I found the approach from Nautilus Wall to be a much better option. Feb 13, 2026