Viva la Anarquía
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
| Type: | Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 25.95261, -100.48111 |
| FA: | Josh Warfield |
| Page Views: | 283 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Warfield on Jan 7, 2025 |
| Admins: | Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
P1 - 4 bolts, 15m, 5.8
Climb the heavily featured slab to the ledge. Short pitch, easily linked with P2.
P2 - 9 bolts, 25m, 5.9
Continue up the slab with plenty of good holds, but the occasional section that makes you stop to think. Belay at a dead palm.
P3 - 12 bolts, 35m, 5.10d
Step right off the belay then climb up the thin face. This section is a bit hard to read (though that may change with more chalk on the holds), but the crux is not as hard or as long as it might appear. Pass a dirty ledge on your left, then traverse into the dihedral and follow that up to a comfy ledge belay.
P4 - 13 bolts, 35m, 5.11a
Step left off the ledge for some immediate exposure, and then climb a short crux sequence with intermittent finger cracks. Continue up through ledgy terrain as the ridge feature narrows, and top out as it comes to a point.
Rap the route from here, or follow the fixed line along the 4th class ridge to access Propaganda etc. A full 70m rope is needed to rappel.
Location
From Sunnyvale, continue right along the trail, generally following the base of the wall. After crossing a small scree slope and reaching the top of a ridge, the trail heads steeply downhill for a bit. Just after it turns back uphill briefly, there is a small cairn marking the turn off to the base of the route.



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