*WARNING* this crag is still under development, and loose rock is prevalent. Always be mindful of rockfall as both climber and belayer, and WEAR A HELMET.
Steep, pumpy limestone that will chew you up, spit you out, and leave you coming back for more because you’re craving the outdoor experience but don’t want to toprope Doug’s Roof and Potato Chips for the 100th time. A quick stop on your way to Marquette/Ontario, or a jumping off point to explore the wonders of the Eastern UP, such as Tahquamenon Falls, Whitefish Bay, Monocle Lake, Bush Bay (Narnia Trail), Fiborn Karst, and dozens of other gems. Hiking, paddling, fishing, and biking opportunities abound in the area, so make it a multi-sport weekend trip. In the summer, rent a cabin at East Lake Resort and row out to the islands to take a dip when the bugs become unbearable at the crag. Don’t forget to stop at King’s Fish Market for soup, a sandwich, a fish fry, or some fish dip.
Most climbs are fully bolted and have lower-off hardware at the top that you can clip your rope into directly for easy cleaning (it is still recommended that you go in direct to the fixed anchor while cleaning any TR anchor your party has placed). Any section is open to TR/Trad/boulder projects. Even solid dry-tooling lines for the winter! Some routes have a lot of loose rock for the first few feet so a stick clip is highly recommended. Top access allows for dropping a rope down to TR a harder line or project if desired. There are dozens of potential lines waiting for someone who is looking to put in the work to polish a diamond (or lump of coal) in the rough and leave their mark on Michigan climbing. So, if you’ve ever dreamed of becoming a rock climbing developer or First Ascentionist, here you go!
Three miles Southeast of Dick, Michigan. For best results, put GPS coordinates below into google maps. From East Lake Road, find USFS road 3323, then follow that for about a quarter mile to a small parking area with a North Country Trail trailhead. Hike the trail southeast for 2 minutes and you will see the expansive cliff band rising out of the woods to your right. Where the trail gets closest to the cliff, there is a good spot to scramble up for top access. Trails for various nooks will spur off from the NCT about another minute farther down.
Forest Service road entrance: 46.163207, -84.790137
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Northern Lower Peninsula Mi…
North Mitten
Pros:
- In its current state, this is already better quality stone than Grand Ledge (different rock types notwithstanding). It's on par with the Mad River Gorge. It reminds me at times of the OK Corral crags at Wild Iris.
- Beautiful, secluded forest zone
- Good first sport and trad leads for the aspiring outdoor climber
- Good opportunity to familiarize yourself with how limestone climbs.
- Drop-in anchors optimize the climbing:rigging ratio (thanks UPCC and crag developers!)
- Real rock 2.5 hours from Traverse City!
Cons:
- Routes are 30' tall at best.
- Trad routes are too featured to require jamming technique
- Lack of harder routes (currently)
I found this crag to be enjoyable, with good potential for moderates. It's worth a visit! Nov 23, 2023