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Mt. Bourgeau

International > N America > Canada > Alberta > Banff NP

Description

Mt. Bourgeau is north of the Sunshine ski area, and is home to two cleverly named, classic ice routes, Bourgeau Right-Hand, and Bourgeau Left-Hand. Both of these routes are on the south side of the mountain and as such, are susceptible to sun affect. There are also acres of avalanche terrain above both routes, so be aware of conditions. The south side of the mountain is occasionally bombed for avalanche control as it threatens the road to Sunshine.

Getting There

The South side of the mountain is easily accessed by driving just a few miles north of Banff and Sunshine ski area exit. Park in the ski area parking lot.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
The Early Worm
Sport, Alpine 6 pitches
WI5
 15
Bourgeau Left-Hand
Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 2
Flirting with the Bosch
Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
Walk of Ages
Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
WI4
 7
Bourgeau Right-Hand
Trad, Ice, Alpine 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Early Worm
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, Alpine 6 pitches
Bourgeau Left-Hand
 15
WI5 Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
Flirting with the Bosch
 2
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
Walk of Ages
 2
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
Bourgeau Right-Hand
 7
WI4 Trad, Ice, Alpine 6 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Start of the trail for Bourgeau Slabs
[Hide Photo] Start of the trail for Bourgeau Slabs
Bourgeau Slabs from the Sunshine Ski hill parking lot
[Hide Photo] Bourgeau Slabs from the Sunshine Ski hill parking lot

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Serj
Uxbridge, ON
[Hide Comment] Spectacular and sustained slab climbing at Bourgeau Slabs. Slab is misleading. The wall is STEEP. Its off vertical mostly but its on the cusp for the whole wall. Contrived bolting on easier pitches but all cruxes are very well bolted. Bring a wrench/nut tool theres some spinners.

The atmosphere is awesome, surrounded by big walls. Might be different if it isn't covid season and the gondola is running.

The approach is to the LEFT of the sign about unexploded ordinance (you have to duck under some fallen trees) but its really hard to get lost. We went to the right of the sign and immediately got back on track after. Found the wall hard to sight from the parking lot but once you're in the meadows its obvious. The approach took about 40 mins for us. Towards the end it gets surprisingly steep (looks very simple from afar) and loose, this bit took 20 minutes alone. Rap off some tat on the tree below Walk of Ages to descend and skip that nonsense. We backed the tat up (Oct 2020) but consider bringing a knife and cutting it and replacing it :). Easy scramble down the gully and traverse around skiers right, but make sure you go one at a time and space, rocks are bound to be knocked down on anyone below. Oct 4, 2020