Type: Sport, Alpine, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dave Thomson
Page Views: 1,156 total · 21/month
Shared By: Tom Gnyra on Aug 28, 2015
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A great climbing adventure on some great rock. Considered one of the better sport multi-pitch climbs in the valley, if not the best at the grade.

The climbing is sustained and long so go quickly and be confidant as a 11- leader. If not, this can easily turn into a longer day. 200m of climbing can feel long, but that said the climbing is similar to other climbs in the area and so there isn't anything new.

P1, 38m: A high first bolt at 6m continues on to harder climbing 10c
P2, 35m: Harder than the first pitch as it is sustained, steep 10 climbing to a 10c crux
P3, 30m: Two harder roof encounters continue to the sustained nature of the climb
P4, 30m: Less sustained with a few hard moves and a traverse. Use long draws.
P5, 22m: More low ten climbing gets you to a ledge with less good rock off the deck. 10-
P6, 30m: The crux of the route, maybe the hardest boulder problem on steep rock. 10+/11-

Do not top out. Just rap. It's not recommended to try to top this one out as it is loose above.

Location

about 30 minutes away from the parking lot, left of Bourgeau Left (the ice route). about 30m from the other Bourgeau slab climb routes.

Protection

***A 70m rope is required for this climb!**

Otherwise use 16 draws, slings, and a general sport rack. This climb is rigged for 35m raps and the last two stations are not the same as the belay stations. See topo.

Photos