[Hide Comment] This is down the slope quite a bit from the trail, so hard to find from above until you are familiar with the hillside. I think it is easiest to find by getting yourself to the base of the Main Wall. Looking straight out and a few hundred feet away, across the little valley, are some outcrops (with some bouldering). Head over to them and pass around to their left. Hook around to the right, heading north and traverse the rocky hillside. In a minute or two you should see it up the hill a little. Poke around in the rocks and smaller ledges in this general area and you should find a few other things to play on too, including a midget wall with a butt dragging traverse with great holds :).

Most will want a TR for the gently overhanging high stuff on the right side. Some of the other can be highballed if you are careful. Don't under estimate the routes if soloing. Some of the established TR lines are in the 11 to possibly 12 range and there is a fair amount of friable rock and sketchy flakes. The wall faces west, so gets late day sun. GPS coordinates are 41.56833, -71.73353 Dec 15, 2011

[Hide Comment] revisited this wall today and man! what a shame this wall hasn't seen more traffic. The quality of difficult routes here is great. Whether you want to set a 5.13 top rope or develop a V10+ highball boulder...its all there with unique holds and big moves. Mar 21, 2016

[Hide Comment] It might be a place for a few mini 2 or 3 bolt sport routes (2 on the right and 1 to the left of the cracks) and anchors for the 2 cracks if everything was camoed up well. It is an area where very few non climbers would see them. Otherwise, it is a pain in the ass for such a short craglet with long slings etc to TR. Then it would be worth recleaning the routes here. I am not sure you will find a quality 13, but some of the existing lines were 11s if I remember right (maybe harder now with broken holds). The cracks to the left are good when clean. Mar 22, 2016

[Hide Comment] When we lobbied the RI DEM back in the Spring of 2010 to specifically include climbing in the new "RI Park and Management Area Rules and Regulations" they had included a provision about no fixed gear. Working behind the scenes we got that taken out. So bolting is neither approved nor prohibited. So if you are discreet about it then it shouldn't be a problem.

From the DEM regulations:

17.9 Rock climbing is permitted at state parks, and management areas except at Fort Wetherill State Park, Jamestown. Mar 23, 2016

[Hide Comment] Good to know, Brian. There are a couple lines on the main wall that would make nice moderate sport routes, but that area is one of the few places in RI where hikers can get a little feeling of being in the mountains (even though people throw trash over it), so I think it should be left natural. The Fire Wall would probably be OK if we used glue-ins bolts and painted them to match the rock. Mar 23, 2016