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Svolvaergeita

International > Europe > Norway > Lofoten

Description

This is probably the most famous rock feature in Lofoten. Most climbers will be far more impressed by the sweeping granite wall of Presten, but Svolvaergeita gets more attention.

Svolvaergeita ("The Svolvaer Goat") is a clean granite spire topped by two blocks, or horns, rising straight above the town of Svolvaer. The tradition is to jump from the higher spire to the lower one. The lower summit block is weathering away, and in the winter of 2006/7 a chunk of the inner edge fell off. The guidebook states that the jump is "no longer recommended", but people still do it. Have at it, if that's your thing. The graveyard below adds encouragement. The views from up on the spire are spectacular.

Getting There

From Henningsvaer, drive to Svolvaer. When arriving to town, you'll go through a tunnel - go left at the roundabout after the tunnel. Turn left into Nyveien (sign for Melkerdalen/Nybyen. Follow the road around to the right, then right again, then make a left on the road at the graveyard, then turn left again and drive downhill. Park in front of the school. The trail leaves from here and is marked "Svolvaergeita”

Head up the newly installed (2020) stone stair path (passing the old slab with chains, which is to the left of the path as you start up) to the shoulder above, then cut right off the path and over towards Svolvaergeita (the cut off is also signed).

Routes from Left to Right

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
1910 Ruta
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Forsida
Trad 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
1910 Ruta
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Forsida
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View from the top of the Svolvaergeita (The Goat)
[Hide Photo] View from the top of the Svolvaergeita (The Goat)
Making "The Goat" leap!
[Hide Photo] Making "The Goat" leap!
The beautiful spire of Svolvaergeita from the approach.
[Hide Photo] The beautiful spire of Svolvaergeita from the approach.
The view from the backside
[Hide Photo] The view from the backside
Closer view
[Hide Photo] Closer view
"The Goat" in the distance
[Hide Photo] "The Goat" in the distance
Svolvaergeita from the town of Svolvaer.  The twins summit blocks, or "horns", are visible in this photo.
[Hide Photo] Svolvaergeita from the town of Svolvaer. The twins summit blocks, or "horns", are visible in this photo.