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Underworld

Utah > Southwest Utah > Saint George
Warning Access Issue: Some of the landowners have expressed that they do not want climbers crossing their land to access the cliff from the top (north). DetailsDrop down

Description

Todd Goss and a few friends found this place back in the nineties and put a few stellar routes up. Much to my liking they left a lot still to be done. Due to the short season and long approach, not much action has gone on here for a long time. Last year James Huntsman and I put in some stellar lines. This is a winter area with a lot of potential. Once Todd Perkins gets psyched there I'm sure most of the awesome lines will get done. It's in the sun most of the day. Think Paradise Forks!! Lots can be done here in the harder grades, but not much to do under 5.10.

Getting There

From the south you'll need a high clearance vehicle with a long easy hike in. Please read the Access Issue note above.

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Son of a Bit
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
What’s My Line
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Bloody Back
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 2
Racquiescence
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 4
Mr. Perfect
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
In the Moment
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Floyd's Jam
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Hungry Ghosts aka Preta
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 2
Unknown 5.12
Trad
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 2
Self Doubt
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
Blood Brothers
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 1
Mexican Mafia
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 1
Unknown 12b-ish
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
She screams, Frozen until the wa…
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Charon
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 5
Cmobog
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 2
Cerberus
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Osiris
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Persephone
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
Orcus
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
Corruption
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Pluto
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 16
Extortion
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Vice
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
Alias
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 3
Unknown 11-
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
Made Man
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 2
Criminal Ballistics
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
Armed Robbery
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 27
Armed and Dangerous
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
Size Doesn't Matter
Trad
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
 1
Unfinished Project
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 1
Cottonmouth
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Son of a Bit
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
What’s My Line
 7
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Bloody Back
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Racquiescence
 2
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Mr. Perfect
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
In the Moment
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Floyd's Jam
 20
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Hungry Ghosts aka Preta
 5
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Unknown 5.12
 2
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Self Doubt
 2
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Blood Brothers
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Mexican Mafia
 1
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Unknown 12b-ish
 1
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
She screams, Frozen until t…
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Charon
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Cmobog
 5
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
Cerberus
 2
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Osiris
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Persephone
 10
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Orcus
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Corruption
 18
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Pluto
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Extortion
 16
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Vice
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Alias
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Unknown 11-
 3
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Made Man
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Criminal Ballistics
 2
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Armed Robbery
 20
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Armed and Dangerous
 27
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Size Doesn't Matter
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Unfinished Project
 1
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad
Cottonmouth
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Showing Son of a Bit and Floyd's Jam for perspective and route-finding.
[Hide Photo] Showing Son of a Bit and Floyd's Jam for perspective and route-finding.
restricted access from the north unless you follow the steps listed in the image.
[Hide Photo] restricted access from the north unless you follow the steps listed in the image.
ben on unknown(?) route
[Hide Photo] ben on unknown(?) route
probably the easiest route in the area. unknown crack, short, maybe 60ft.
[Hide Photo] probably the easiest route in the area. unknown crack, short, maybe 60ft.
If you must access from the North: Some property owners ask for absolutely no trespassing on their property, highlighted in red. Please leave them alone and respect their land. As said by Ben, please speak with Trent before entering his property.
[Hide Photo] If you must access from the North: Some property owners ask for absolutely no trespassing on their property, highlighted in red. Please leave them alone and respect their land. As said by Ben, plea…
 I've still not got the red point but this is my pride and joy. This thing has very cool movement and a crux that will eat your lunch. Go's solid 11+
[Hide Photo] I've still not got the red point but this is my pride and joy. This thing has very cool movement and a crux that will eat your lunch. Go's solid 11+
Here is a more detailed image of south approach. Red=high clearance 2wd road, 1.6 miles. Blue=hiking, .79 miles, 242' elevation gain on the way in, 426' on the way out. Red pin is legal BLM camping near Prophecy Wall, green blocky line is BLM boundary.
[Hide Photo] Here is a more detailed image of south approach. Red=high clearance 2wd road, 1.6 miles. Blue=hiking, .79 miles, 242' elevation gain on the way in, 426' on the way out. Red pin is legal BLM camping…
 Jared B. is working on this one which we think will go @ 12+. He's Calling it "Aaron Collins Is Gay AKA The Chlamydia Drip". I Don't know what he's talking about!?! But it sounds fun J!!
[Hide Photo] Jared B. is working on this one which we think will go @ 12+. He's Calling it "Aaron Collins Is Gay AKA The Chlamydia Drip". I Don't know what he's talking about!?! But it sounds fun J!!
How to access the underworld
[Hide Photo] How to access the underworld
underworld
[Hide Photo] underworld
this is the fist line Jame Huntsman and I put up
[Hide Photo] this is the fist line Jame Huntsman and I put up
On the belay (son of a bit)
[Hide Photo] On the belay (son of a bit)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Anyone have any info on the stuff that's been done since the guidebook came out? Aaron, James, you guys have a topo? Dec 5, 2010
Garret Nuzzo Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] Dow Williams has some excellent info about the crag and approach on his Summitpost page. Approach from the south via a high clearance 2WD dirt road and hike along a well defined trail down into the canyon. The cliffs aren't visible from satellite imagery, but obvious once you get to the canyon rim. Access from the north would be on private property. Jan 20, 2015
Ben Eder
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] UPDATE ON ACCESS FROM THE NORTH (crossing private property): After a few trips to the Underworld, I finally met the land owner (Trent). He's a nice cowboy.

I was parked on the road, next to his cattle gate just waiting for another party to arrive so we could all head down together, and he drove up in his truck. We spoke at length about the 'trespassers on the land' and how he didn't mind if we crossed his property to rap off the cliffs, but WE NEED TO ASK FOR HIS PERMISSION FIRST. He is allowing climbers to WALK (not drive or park on) across his field to access the cliff faces below, if they ask for permission. Access could easily be revoked, so don't abuse this.

Here is what I recommend, so you don't get your car towed or shot at while crossing the field: show up to his house (within reasonable hours, not early morning or late at night). Come bearing gifts. A pie from Veyo Pies is acceptable. Ask nicely for permission to park outside his gate and cross his property to rap off the cliffs at the edge of his property. He will most likely grant you permission, unless other climbers have already ruined it for you. Also, offer to pickup some trash on your way in and out. The gesture will be appreciated.

I have uploaded some map images to the mp page for your reference on the best approach beta from the North. Again, remember to ask for permission before crossing the property!

If you are not willing to do these few extra steps, plan some extra time to approach from the south using the standard approach beta. Jan 25, 2022
Ben Eder
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] If you have criticisms on the access route from the North, please keep it to yourself. I have worked very hard to make this happen for folks (talking to land owners, trail building, map making, etc.) so no need to spread your discontent. Thanks. Jan 29, 2022
[Hide Comment] Ben, thanks for all your work down there. I do have a question though. If Trent is not home, what do you recommend? And I know its not a big destination zone (right now) but you know what its like when you have an easy approach to any climbing areas. Is he totally cool with random people knocking on his door, maybe every day when the crag is good to go? Good idea on the pie by the way.
Cheers! Jan 29, 2022
Ben Eder
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] hey @apross. thanks for the kudos. If Trent is not home, I would recommend taking the southern approach, or going 20 minutes up the road to Pine Valley (which has a very similar rock style, more variety in climbs, and a super easy approach). I am working on developing the trail and approach beta to PV and should have something posted soon. It's not that far out of the way.

There is always the southern approach via the road to Prophesy. I recommend trying to get ahold of him the afternoon or evening before you want to climb, that way there is no confusion. His house is about 2 minutes outside of Veyo, so its not that far out of the way.

Essentially: if you're unable to get ahold of Trent, I recommend avoiding the Northern approach, best to stay on the safe side. Jan 30, 2022
[Hide Comment] The southern approach is an easy, pleasant hike on a good trail that takes less than a half hour (.8 mile distance with 425' elevation gain on the way out.) It hardly seems worth troubling the local landowners to avoid it. We saw a blue heron while walking along the creek, which was a cool surprise in a desert environment. The road has some large embedded rocks to negotiate but my old Toyota van made it back there in 2wd just fine. Short wheelbase is a plus if you don't have super high clearance. Jan 31, 2022
Jason Mills
Northwest "Where climbers g…
[Hide Comment] aschmidt is spot on: Bugging a landowner to avoid the “longer” approach is silly; we got to the end of the road (slowly) in my Subaru Outback no problem, it’s a very pleasant and pretty walk on a good trail from there, about 25 minutes to the wall. If you can’t make it to the end of the road it’s only an extra 10-minute flat walk from the reservoir to the trail. The road gets really muddy after rain and may be impassible (and if you drive it you’re gunna make it worse).

There are a lot of mistakes/inconsistencies/omissions in the guide for this area; have the guide and the Proj to best navigate Underworld.

Maybe I don't get out much, but this is one of the coolest crags I've ever climbed at. Feb 14, 2024
Michael Vaill
Yosemite
[Hide Comment] I got some more details on the North (private property) approach yesterday. I agree with others that it's better to just approach the normal way from the South, unless you've only got a low-clearance vehicle.

For those who might need to access the wall through Trent's property, please see the map that I have added to this page. Some of the property owners ask for absolutely no trespassing on their property. I have highlighted their property in red on the map so that we can all leave them alone and respect their land.

As Ben said, Trent asks for anyone entering his property to talk to him first. Depending on what animals he has on the land at any given time might dictate where he asks you to walk. Jan 29, 2025