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Todd Goss and a few friends found this place back in the nineties and put a few stellar routes up. Much to my liking they left a lot still to be done. Due to the short season and long approach, not much action has gone on here for a long time. Last year James Huntsman and I put in some stellar lines. This is a winter area with a lot of potential. Once Todd Perkins gets psyched there I'm sure most of the awesome lines will get done. It's in the sun most of the day. Think Paradise Forks!! Lots can be done here in the harder grades, but not much to do under 5.10.
From the south you'll need a high clearance vehicle with a long easy hike in. Please read the Access Issue note above.
| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● Son of a Bit |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad | ||
| ● What’s My Line |
|
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad | ||
| ● Bloody Back |
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad | ||
| ● Racquiescence |
|
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad | ||
| ● Mr. Perfect |
|
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad | ||
| ● In the Moment |
|
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad | ||
| ● Floyd's Jam |
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad | ||
| ● Hungry Ghosts aka Preta |
|
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
| ● Unknown 5.12 |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad | ||
| ● Self Doubt |
|
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport | ||
| ● Blood Brothers |
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad | ||
| ● Mexican Mafia |
|
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad | ||
| ● Unknown 12b-ish |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad | ||
| ● She screams, Frozen until t… |
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport | ||
| ● Charon |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad | ||
| ● Cmobog |
|
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad | ||
| ● Cerberus |
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches | ||
| ● Osiris |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches | ||
| ● Persephone |
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | ||
| ● Orcus |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | ||
| ● Corruption |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches | ||
| ● Pluto |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Extortion |
|
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad | ||
| ● Vice |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad | ||
| ● Alias |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad | ||
| ● Unknown 11- |
|
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad | ||
| ● Made Man |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad | ||
| ● Criminal Ballistics |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad | ||
| ● Armed Robbery |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad | ||
| ● Armed and Dangerous |
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad | ||
| ● Size Doesn't Matter |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | ||
| ● Unfinished Project |
|
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad | ||
| ● Cottonmouth |
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad |
Salt Lake City, UT
Here is the summitpost link summitpost.org/underworld-5… Jan 26, 2015
Salt Lake City, UT
I was parked on the road, next to his cattle gate just waiting for another party to arrive so we could all head down together, and he drove up in his truck. We spoke at length about the 'trespassers on the land' and how he didn't mind if we crossed his property to rap off the cliffs, but WE NEED TO ASK FOR HIS PERMISSION FIRST. He is allowing climbers to WALK (not drive or park on) across his field to access the cliff faces below, if they ask for permission. Access could easily be revoked, so don't abuse this.
Here is what I recommend, so you don't get your car towed or shot at while crossing the field: show up to his house (within reasonable hours, not early morning or late at night). Come bearing gifts. A pie from Veyo Pies is acceptable. Ask nicely for permission to park outside his gate and cross his property to rap off the cliffs at the edge of his property. He will most likely grant you permission, unless other climbers have already ruined it for you. Also, offer to pickup some trash on your way in and out. The gesture will be appreciated.
I have uploaded some map images to the mp page for your reference on the best approach beta from the North. Again, remember to ask for permission before crossing the property!
If you are not willing to do these few extra steps, plan some extra time to approach from the south using the standard approach beta. Jan 25, 2022
Salt Lake City, UT
Cheers! Jan 29, 2022
Salt Lake City, UT
There is always the southern approach via the road to Prophesy. I recommend trying to get ahold of him the afternoon or evening before you want to climb, that way there is no confusion. His house is about 2 minutes outside of Veyo, so its not that far out of the way.
Essentially: if you're unable to get ahold of Trent, I recommend avoiding the Northern approach, best to stay on the safe side. Jan 30, 2022
Northwest "Where climbers g…
There are a lot of mistakes/inconsistencies/omissions in the guide for this area; have the guide and the Proj to best navigate Underworld.
Maybe I don't get out much, but this is one of the coolest crags I've ever climbed at. Feb 14, 2024
Yosemite
For those who might need to access the wall through Trent's property, please see the map that I have added to this page. Some of the property owners ask for absolutely no trespassing on their property. I have highlighted their property in red on the map so that we can all leave them alone and respect their land.
As Ben said, Trent asks for anyone entering his property to talk to him first. Depending on what animals he has on the land at any given time might dictate where he asks you to walk. Jan 29, 2025