PRINT: Rock Climbing in Split Rock, Sweetwater Rocks

Split Rock

Wyoming > Sweetwater Rocks

Access Issue: Sticky situation Details

This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind.

The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.

Description

A granite slab and exfoliated face, south of the Split Rocks twin summits.

A multi-pitch NOLS climbing area with 70 years of climbing history.

Best sub 5.10, trad, multi-pitch climbing in the region, but, a bit "slabby".

Descend from the summit of Split Rocks head South west (250 true) .2 miles until you are cliffed, do a 30 foot rap off of a 6 foot spike of rock, your rope will easily pull down. Pick your way, down climb scramble, thru an amazing gully system (130 degrees true) that, if done correctly does not require any raps.

The Oregon trail crosses just east of here, well that's what the sign said.

Getting There

From intersection of 287 and 220 in WY aka Three Forks, go north on 287 approx 8.2 miles until the parking area to view Split Rocks.

The 11c crack climb is a 10 minute walk around to the North side of the parking area cliff, Cranner Rocks.

N42 27.215 W107 32.748

Routes from Left to Right

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 7 ● Standard Route Trad 4 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c 1 ● Marginal Error Trad 4 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 1 ● High Plains Saga Sport 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X 1 ● The Overload Trad 5 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 2 ● Fire and Sage Sport 5 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 2 ● Lentil Scrutinizer Trad, TR

● Standard Route

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 4 pitches

● Marginal Error

5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad 4 pitches

● High Plains Saga

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport 4 pitches

● The Overload

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X Trad 5 pitches

● Fire and Sage

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 5 pitches

● Lentil Scrutinizer

5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Split Rock, SE Face, the best easy and moderate multi pitch climbing in the region.

Looking South West from Split Rocks summit. That's "Great Stone Face" in the distance Alt 6795.

Split rocks descent Gully

East side of Split Rocks, Drain Pipe is on left side of clean face.

From summit of Split Rocks looking north.<br>
Moonstone is off in the distance, alt 7559

From summit of Split Rocks looking north. Moonstone is off in the distance, alt 7559

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

allen simons

This rock looks like it would take multiple routes. Are there really only two on it or are there more not listed? Allen May 4, 2007

Umph!

There are many routes - a good guide is the Lander Rock. Sep 1, 2007

RockinGal Moser
Boulder CO

We tried to get to Split Rock a couple of weeks ago through the rancher's gate as the guidebook suggested. We were told in no uncertain terms that the gate was closed and that another neighbor closed her access as well.
It seems that to get to any of the rocks, you'd have to go down Agate Rock Road and then head east to Split Rock. Good luck. Sep 7, 2012

Nathan Maxon
Wyoming

You can access by crossing the Sweetwater, on state land, a couple miles west of the Cranner parking lot. After crossing the river,it would be a mile or two hike to the base, navigating around private land. And yes, those ranchers out there are supreme jerks and think that they own all of those public lands. Feb 29, 2016

Brett Yost
Bend, OR

Did a couple of very very excellent 4-5 pitch moderate face routes here in 1996 off of a hand drawn topo we got from a guy we met in the Winds. Is there a reason these aren't included on this page? Dec 6, 2016