Access Issue: Echo Cliffs - closures still in effect in the Grotto section.
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Echo Cliffs has become one of the premier sport climbing venues in Southern California and hosts nearly 200 routes. Echo Cliff offers many faces that feature pockets and blocky holds on vertical to overhanging rock in a beautiful, typically sunny setting. Many of the routes found at Echo Cliffs are long and require a 60-meter rope to lower off or toprope, so it's a good idea to always climb with a 60-meter rope and be mindful of the route descriptions and where the end of the rope is. All routes at Echo Cliffs are bolt protected and have fixed anchors at the top. While the temperatures are most enjoyable during the fall, winter, and spring, climbing is still possible in the summer.
Guidebooks: Louie Anderson and Todd Fertig, “Sport Climbing in the Santa Monicas” 3rd edition 2018.
Tom Slater, “Southern California Rock Climbing“ 2013.
Troy Mahr, “Southern California Sport Climbing“ 2004.
Steve Edwards, "Rock Climbing Santa Barbara & Ventura,” 2000.
From the 101 Freeway take the Westlake Boulevard exit and head south on Westlake (California 23). After roughly 7 miles turn right (west) on Mulholland Highway. After half a mile turn right on Little Sycamore Canyon Road, which becomes Yerba Buena Road. After 4 miles park in dirt pullouts on either side of the road. The trail starts from parking lot on the right (west) side of road.
The hike in takes about 45 - 60 minutes. Take the Mishe Mokwa trail for about 40 minutes. The trail intersects a dry stream bed on right at the bottom of a significant downhill section of the trail. There's a brown sign post in the wash marking the climbers trail. If you find yourself at the overlook you've gone 30 yards too far. Follow the stream bed down to the climbs making every effort to stay on durable surfaces (rock, not soil or vegetation).
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Stanford, CA
work.
Calabasas
Santa Rosa Valley, CA
maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=… Sep 18, 2009
This is one of the better places to learn lead & multi-pitch climbing on fixed bolts. And it's probably the least crowded crag in LA County. Gorgeous area with a beautiful, shady grotto.
I'm saddened to hear about the trash and feces problem. This area was just starting to gain populairty when I lived there (03-05) and trash hadn't yet become a problem.
C'mon people respect one of LA County's only "backcountry" crags! Apr 22, 2010
Santa Cruz, CA
Grand Rapids, MI
It's better than nothing; you can either ignore the star ratings in his book or write a better one (in print or on the web). Bottom line is that the guidebook is out there, it represents the viewpoint of a guy who spent a lot of time developing the area, and he just isn't real likely to change it just because the area is (objectively) a choss pile.
With the right frame of mind, training at Echo can still be a good time. You just can't show up expecting Astroman to rise out of the hills. Jan 1, 2011
Spokane, WA
This is a beautiful area, this weekend was my first time here, and it was BUSY! I'm not sure if that is normal. If you want to climb below 5.10, you might expect a line. The newer walls (far side and further) seem to still be cleaning up, so helmets for everyone at the base is a good idea, unless there are no other parties. However, if it's not so busy, the moderates here are stellar. It can be quite noisy, and I hope the local residents don't hear it all day everyday.
This is just from a small sampling though. I hope to get back soon to do more. If the rock was cleaner... this area would be STELLAR! But don't let that deter you. The trails along the crag bases were especially nicely maintained. Feb 6, 2011
Bishop, CA
Echo cliffs is a federally protected wilderness under the National Park Service. Access can be closed if we as climbers do not respect some simple rules. Simply put.. leave no trace. Pack out your trash and don't destroy stuff. Leave the plants and animals alone. Your dog is required to be on a leash at all times.
Camping is illegal. Fires are not only illegal, but suicidal given the lack of an escape route and the dry conditions. There have been multiple incidents now of camping and fire-pits as well as people (both climbers and non-climbers) clearing bushes and chopping down trees to make room for encampments. This could definitely cause a permanent closure if it continues.
Tampering with plants/wildlife and cutting new access trails upsets the land managers. It has been an issue in the past. Fortunately, with areas like The Grotto and The Lookout, the park was willing to work out a compromise of partial closure. There are established access trails to every wall, so creating new ones is totally unnecessary. If you find yourself sliding down an severely eroding hillside, thrashing though bushes or ripping plants off a route, you are in the wrong place. Stick to walking on rock whenever possible. If you need to mark the trail, use cairns (not paint like some idiot did recently).
For route developers...power drills are prohibited as is vertical gardening. All cliff-line beyond The Tea Room is private property closed to development. Fixed draws are technically illegal as well.
Let's keep Echo safe, beautiful and open for everyone to enjoy in the future. We don't need another one of our prime sport-climbing areas shut down. It's not hard to follow the rules and still have a great day out there. Happy climbing everyone. Nov 18, 2013
Los Angeles, CA
An unfortunate reality for a great spot in LA. Ive already created laminated signs for my windows offering a $50 dollar reward to any would be thieves for NOT breaking my rear windshield. Also, on the market for some booby trap riggers. Any leads would be much appreciated.
Aside from the aforementioned above and some pretty jaded hippies, this place ROCKS. PUN INTENDED!!!!!!! Feb 3, 2014
Inglewood, ca
So here's a GPS from parking lot to base of climbs.
wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do… Jun 1, 2015
Sparks, NV
On the drive back down Yerba Buena Road, we picked up a fallen motorcyclist and took him along on our ride to the hospital. He had slid out on rock fall debris. He ended up with broken ribs. Take it easy and watch for fallen rock on the roads! Aug 10, 2017
San Diego
Port Hueneme
San Diego, CA
Flagstaff
Unfortunately though, I fault the new generation of gym-to-crag climbers and the Covid closure of the gyms. Jan 25, 2021
Ojai
Small Town, USA